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Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
Routes Sorted
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Pico 17,612 North Face T 
Pico Ojeda NE Ridge T 
Pico Ojeda North Face T 
Pico Ojeda Southwest Snowramp T 
Pico Oriental North Face T 
South Face of Pico La Reina T 

South Face of Pico La Reina 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI5 [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Tad Welch 01-1984
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Nov 5, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the S Face of Pico La Reina with the huge ...

Description 

The route climbs a prominent icy chimney that is similar to, but harder than, the crux of the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire. Above the chimney, continue on easier ground up toward the huge overhang. Skirt the right side of the spectacular overhang that is festooned with giant icicles that hang in space. Easier climbing leads a snow ridge, which can be followed up and right (east) to the summit (18,158 feet).

Location 

In the left center of the south face at about 2/3 height is a huge overhang with icicles dripping from it. This route starts roughly below the right edge of the huge overhang.

Protection 

Carry an alpine rack.


Photos of South Face of Pico La Reina Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the lower third of the crux pitch. Black Dike t...
BETA PHOTO: On the lower third of the crux pitch. Black Dike t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of the crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the top of the crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The giant overhang with icicles on the S Face of P...
BETA PHOTO: The giant overhang with icicles on the S Face of P...

Comments on South Face of Pico La Reina Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sanllan
Jun 23, 2015

Do you have pictures?
By Carl Deane
Jul 12, 2016

Anyone got any beta for the approach.....