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South Face of Arthur's Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big, Bad Book T,S 
Blackish Blobs S 
Corridor Project S 
Doom Corner T,S 
Edge Of Time S 
Excellent Adventure S 
Front Gate T 
Goldeneye S 
Great Corner, The T 
Great Variant, The T 
Intestinal Fortitude S 
Kiddy Pool S 
Owl Roof S 
Right of Passage T,S 
Rocksie Rocks S 
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 
Sunrise T 
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 
Water Fountain TR 

South Face of Arthur's Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.5669, -105.1872 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,673
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
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South Face of Arthur's Rock with a few of the clas...

2017 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The South Face of Arthur's Rock is an incredible, 150-200 foot, overhanging, granite dome. Fort Collins locals have climbed on this obvious cliff ever since Lory State Park opened in 1975.

The climbing on Arthur's Rock is generally traditional in nature, with most climbs following obvious crack systems with ample natural protection.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks/ar...

RAPTOR CLOSURE MARCH 15 - JULY 31
The closure is for peregrine's nesting/breeding on the South wall of Arthur's, above the trail. Essentially all routes east of, and including, The Great Corner will be affected, to include the climber's descent "trail".

All routes west of The Great Corner are unaffected by the present closure.

Getting There 

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',6],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Face of Arthur's Rock:
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Sunday Morning Coming Down   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Blackish Blobs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Right of Passage   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
The Great Variant   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Intestinal Fortitude   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Big, Bad Book   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
Edge Of Time   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Goldeneye   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Doom Corner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Owl Roof   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rocksie Rocks   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Featured Route For South Face of Arthur's Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Rocksie Rocks, 12b.

Rocksie Rocks 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  Colorado : Fort Collins : ... : South Face of Arthur's Rock
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information: nococlimbing.org/portfolio/art... route climbs the undulating orange and green face between Doom Corner and The Great Corner. Start up an easy slab into technical terrain and the crux around bolts 4 and 5. Climb a short, right-facing corner that pulls a small roof, then contin...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of South Face of Arthur's Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: .
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Rock Climbing Photo: South Face, east side.
South Face, east side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-up of South Face Arthur's main.
Close-up of South Face Arthur's main.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from Howard Trail.
Photo from Howard Trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Blackish Blobs, start.
Blackish Blobs, start.

Comments on South Face of Arthur's Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zachary98
Mar 24, 2014
I lost a pair of I think size 8 Scarpa rock climbing shoes. Tey are yellow, and if found, call 970-222-4401. Thanks.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 13, 2016
Yes, most of the South Face is closed until the end of July.
The closure involves all routes from the Great Corner to Sunday Morning Comedown.

Blackish Blobs, Excellent Adventure, Tears of a Clown, Gravities Rainbow and all of the bouldering are open during the closure.

Please respect the closure and have fun up there!

-NCCC

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