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The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
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Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
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Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Usually August thru January.
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Chris Plesko on Jul 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: 1st Pinnacle (The Amphitheater) West Bench Dihedr...

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  • Description 

    This route was fun and steep compared to many other Flatirons climbs. The lichen streak is cool looking, and the holds are interesting and mostly on sound rock. Too bad it's not all bulletproof. Start making big moves off the ground to good but not always great pockets, slopers, and sidepulls. Work up on good feet and long reaches to holds that seem to appear where you need them. Keep moving unless you find a hold you can shake out on as the pump will build. At half height, there is a big rest, then continue to crank upwards in similar style to the top. Overall, it felt like a series of boulder problems separated by okay to great rests.

    If this climb was sport bolted, I'm sure it would see traffic, but perhaps some of the holds wouldn't survive that many people. It is worth the effort to setup the top rope if you want to climb something a little steeper.


    Start just to the right of the West Bench Dihedral. Head up through the green lichen streak to the left of South Face Direct.

    We built a top rope anchor at the first BIG notch in the ridge and backed it up with a good cam closer to the bolt anchors. Lead or scramble up the West Ridge of the 1st Pinnacle to get there.


    Very little to no pro without traversing into the already R/X South Face Direct. We TR'd this route using a large nut, a #2 Camalot, and a #3 Camalot. Long slings are necessary. Make sure you are putting gear in good rock up top. When finished, you can walk 10 feet east and rap 110 feet from good bolts or scramble down West Ridge (exposed 4th class).

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