REI Community
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Hangdog T,TR 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Rainshadow Direct S 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

South Face, Jello Tower 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Collins
Page Views: 2,854
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Phil Gleason at the crux, South Face Jello Tower, ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


This is the steep face left of the Midway chimney. Climb steep terrain to a bulge midway up the face. After pulling through the bulge, the difficulties ease. The climbing and the gear are both better than they look from the ground. Belay from bolts on top of Jello Tower (shared by all Jello Tower routes). Consistently fun and interesting 5.8+ moves the whole way.


Gear to 2".

Comments on South Face, Jello Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ray Birks
Apr 27, 2006

This climb was harder than I thought it would be and definitley gets an 8+ or a 9 rating (maybe). It is very exposed and steep through the first crack section but you can put some gear in below the bulge. There is a bolt above the bulge but to pull through it was somewhat difficult. After that it's pretty straightforward to the chains.
By Shaun Johnson
May 2, 2013

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway.
By Allison Herrington
From: Leavenworth
Sep 1, 2013

This is one of the best 5.8's in Leavenworth! Most leaders who can only lead 5.8 or 5.9 will find it difficult. Since it's steep, it's a safe lead, though.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA- Joe Hieb and unknown partner, late 50's or early 60's. One 1/4" bolt was placed just above the lower roof crux. It was there when I did it, but is gone now.
FFA- Fred Beckey, Dave Collins, 1962, they thought it was 5.7, which is funny because when we did Midway with him, he thought it was at least 5.7, but he was having a hard day at 88 years.
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Oct 7, 2015

I wonder when the huge finishing flake will pull loose. If you look closely, it is almost completely detached from the tower. It's freaky because your only choice is to yard on it. Have an escape plan before you yard!
By S. Yi
From: Bellevue, WA
May 23, 2016

Great route for people breaking into the 5.8-5.9 grade. Protects well and is vertical but there are opportunities to rest if you look for them. Much more fun to get up than via Midway.
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

DO THIS ROUTE! The first pitch of Midway gave me the spooks, but this single pitch was nothing but fun from start to finish.
By hummerchine
Jul 14, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I love this climb! I warm up on it all the time and never get tired of it. I've been climbing A LOT for nearly 40 years, have climbed this pitch 100-200 times easy. ain't easy for a 5.8. Never was, never will be. Plus it's gotten a bit harder over the years because it's slick. I rate it 5.9+ and that's being kind to the original grade....the crux would be rated 5.10a at most climbing areas.

I swear...I kinda feel like I OWN this crag. I climb here all the time...easily 4-5 hundred times by now. It's 35 minutes from my house and it RULZ! I've also climbed all over the world...have easily spend over a year of my life in Joshua Tree, many many trips to Yosemite, have climbed El Cap ten times (twice solo), massive amounts of Index climbing, Frenchman Coulee, all over the West, Gunks, Red River Gorge, multiple trips to Moab, three trips to Kalymnos, five to Devil's Tower, etc. etc. etc.

Point being...I know grades. I know grades really well. The grades at Castle Rock are complete BS. Most of them are wildly this case just a moderate amount so.. I should know:D
By Nat D
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 2, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fell and broke my ankle on this route, was getting used to leading 5.7ish in the area and thought "oh its just one grade higher".

This is definitely a big step up from many of the other 5.7s in the Leavenworth area.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 2, 2016

Sorry to hear about your ankle, Nat.

As Hummer- says, it is definitely harder than its rating suggests. And the start has a bad landing.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About