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South Face Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kurt Rasmussen, Muff Cheyney, John Pease, 1973
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Nov 16, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The start of South Face Direct (5.9), South Six Sh...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route is described in Green's book (1998:195-196), but that description doesn't seem to match, so I post this here to elicit others' observations.
The start of this route is fun ~5.8 hand-to-fist jams up the left side of the column, leading to a big inset ledge at about 25 feet. However, if one were to stay left as indicated on Green's topo, it turns into a chimney with an overhung block at the top. That chimney might take a #6 cam for the first 12 feet or so, but then it appears unprotectable for another ~25 feet to the underside of the block. Conversely, Green's narrative describes pitch 1 as "Jam flare with hand crack in it to ledge below notch." Has the route changed? Is the topo wrong? Did I miss something?
Regardless, the start of this route, up the left side, presents a superb alternate start to the South Face Right by avoiding that route's loose flakes on the right. Then, from the right side of the ledge at 25 feet, a second pitch up the South Face Right can easily go all the way to the summit.


This line starts in a flare up the left side of an inset pillar on the peak's south face, leading to the notch between the twin summits and thencely to the summit.


Single set of nuts and double cams to #3 C4 are good (if one stops at the 25' ledge and then proceeds right). Not sure what pro to take for the chimney on the left.

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