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South Face Direct T 

South Face Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1948
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 19, 2015

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Starting P1 (leader's head on stance is just visib...

Description 

A steep line with great holds and good protection. P1 (90' 5.8) follows cracks for 60', then moves right (crux) and up to a good stance (can be split). P2 (80' 5.8-) continues up the steep, juggy crack, to arrive on a big ledge, then follows a crack in the back wall above the ledge to finish (can be split).

Location 

From the coastguard station descend Ash Can Gully until an abseil seems sensible (or down climb carefully). The start is reached (at low tide - beware big waves) by moving west a few metres. South Face Direct takes a line of chunky cracks just left of the right hand side of this buttress.

Protection 

Standard rack, cams up to Friend 3.5. Use long slings and double ropes to avoid rope-drag.


Photos of South Face Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The steep crack at the start of P2 (photo by Charl...
The steep crack at the start of P2 (photo by Charl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving left on the upper part of P1 (photo by Phil...
Moving left on the upper part of P1 (photo by Phil...

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