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South Face Direct 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Russ Johnson, John DeLong, 1982.
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 10, 2001

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


This is a great, balancy route up the fine granite. Watch that first clip - the moves aren't too easy getting to it....

A second pitch continues above the first set of bolts, but it is not often done, it seems.


About 5-6 draws and a few extra for the anchor.

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By Larry Shaw
May 21, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Watch the climbing to the first bolt. At about .9, a fall would send you skittering down the low angle slab. Harder moves at the second bolt lead to easier climbing above.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 24, 2004

Getting to the first bolt, there used to be a nice right hand hold. I pulled it off in 1997. It made the moves a little stiffer.
By Matt Ford
Sep 10, 2006

Darren, I hope you're not saying you pulled it off on purpose. Bad ethics if so.

Otherwise, fun route. 2nd pitch noticeably easier (5.8ish) but there's a nicer view from the top and a great belay ledge to hang out on.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 11, 2006

Matt, it was not intentional. I believe I made that comment as a warning of the slightly more difficult opening moves before you are protected by the first bolt, and in response to Larry's comment about the fall potential getting to the first clip. I fell when the hold popped, and my partner was spotting me. I wasn't hurt though. That's all I remember.
By El-Cisco
From: Denver, Colorado
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb with tricky balance moves for the first two bolts. The remainder is straightforward but kind of run-out.

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