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Whale Dome
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Blood Brother T 
Call Me Ishmael T 
Dem Bones T,S 
Harpoon Direct T 
Moby Dick T 
South Face T 
South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip T 
Trojan, The T 

South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: (per commenters, done 20+ yrs back didn't disclose who)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: bikesrockswaves on Feb 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Mega-cool way to finish the South Face of Whale Dome - and what seems like the obvious direct line. Run straight up the vertical wall midway between Moby Dick and Dem Bones (which are about 60' apart). Move straight up into hanging copper colored dinner plates, then angle slightly right, then back up & left. 5.7+. Good gear once you sling the first dinner plate.
Can combine w/ P4 of SF w/ 80m rope (maybe w/ 70m?)

Location 

Midway between starts of the final sections of Dem Bones & Moby Dick. Moby Dick is vertical turtle shell; Dem Bones is the huge spinal feature that tapers off. Climb the vertical part in the middle.

Protection 

Whatever rack got you to the top of Whale Dome should be fine. Very light rack w/ slings.


Comments on South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip Add Comment
Show which comments
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Mar 2, 2015

likely been done before....you could change that to "been done before"
By Person1
Jun 21, 2015

Dear LC and JHS, this was climbed over a quarter century ago. Best to remove your posting for the sake of accuracy.
By bikesrockswaves
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jul 14, 2015

Just saw 2nd commenter on prior ascent. Noted FA accordingly. Please let me know if party known and I will update accordingly. Great little fun piece of climbing for folks on Moby Dick, South Face, or Dem Bones. Main goal is encouraging folks to enjoy it.

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