REI Community
Great White Throne
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Northwest Face T 
Old South Face, Left Side T 
South Face Diagonal T 
Unsorted Routes:

South Face Diagonal 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Jonathan & Brian Smoot, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,080
Submitted By: bsmoot on Dec 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Brian Cabe following the 3rd pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route follows a series of unique diagonal ribs/ramps which are connected with mostly moderate face/slab climbing to the top of the South face. The rock is soft, white sandstone. All of the loose bolts & belays have been fixed, for now...

Descend route using 2 - 50 meter ropes.


Approach from on top via the Deertrap Mt. Trail. Takes about 2 - 3 hours. Follow trail for about 3 miles, passing Hidden Canyon drainage to a small rise and several switchbacks in the trail. Exit trail at the backside of the rise where you can get a view of East Temple. Soon you can see the top of the GWT and it's hondoos on the summit. Hike north, eventually descending to a slick rock gully which leads to the left side of the South face. Bringing a topo map is prudent.


1 - .75 camalot, 6 long draws

Photos of South Face Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of the south face, Reverend Wyatt tell...
At the base of the south face, Reverend Wyatt tell...
Rock Climbing Photo: GWT from the trail
BETA PHOTO: GWT from the trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the summit - unroping area, Brian & Rick.
Near the summit - unroping area, Brian & Rick.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan on pitch two. See climber at bottom cente...
Jonathan on pitch two. See climber at bottom cente...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian C. hiking last pitch.
Brian C. hiking last pitch.

Comments on South Face Diagonal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Folsom
Dec 24, 2011

Thanks Brian, this looks great.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 26, 2012

Thanks Bros Smoot for another fine adventure route! As of Nov 17 all the lead bolts and anchors were solid. The first bolt on the 4th pitch has a loose hanger but held a couple of falls just fine - should have brushed up on my sandy slab skills before tackling this one! With a good topo map and BrianSLC's excellent approach beta it was a leisurely 3 hour approach - key is heading north just after getting the awesome view towards the East Temple and into Pine Creek.
By Ryan Marsters
Apr 4, 2016

Note on the summit hoodoo - kinda tricky. 20 ft. East side notch, hand traverse left, and stem up toward the bush. This can be protected by a yellow BD 2 and perhaps a 0.3. Rap off the tree (no webbing currently). A hold blew on my buddy and he fell into the bush monster.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About