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Big Ben Tower
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South Face Crack T 

South Face Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: geoff georges on Jan 28, 2014

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Description 

A fun crack up a little tower. The crux is the roof move after the slab on the first pitch.
2nd pitch starts wide right off the belay, maybe 5.9, then mostly 5.8 hand crack. After the big ledge and bush there are a couple of options. I went straight up a over hanging crack, maybe 5.9.
I would give this 3 stars but it was pretty dirty.

Location 

Starts at the very lowest toe of buttress , sort of inside corner, steep blocky, then low angle and old bolt on slab traversing left to gain the chimney where the 2nd pitch goes. There is a good belay pedestal after pulling the roof move. There is an old 1/4" star drive anchor at the top of the tower, rap down back side(north).

Protection 

Gear to 4". Double up with 1"- 3" cams


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