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South Face (aka World Without War) T 

South Face (aka World Without War) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A1 [details]
FA: James Garrett and John Sweeley, 13 March 1999
New Route: Yes
Season: Dry and when not too hot
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008

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Description 

As one studies the long sweeping South Side of Lone Rock, a right facing dihedral that starts almost at the toe of the face, can be noticed going all the way to the summit. Other right facing dihedrals may be present, but this one starts almost at the lowest point and a bolt may be noticed quite low down on the first pitch where it was used to get up a blankish section and into the dihedral.

Pitch #1: Climb to the bolt and trend right around a roof to a two-bolt belay. 5.9+, 40m.

Pitch #2: An ugly chimney crack in the dihedral was avoided by easy Aid to the right and then returning left to the dihedral. A 1" (hard or C1) crack in the dihedral coninues straight up and into a loose band until one soon reaches another two-bolt belay. 5.9+, A1-C1, 50m.

Pitch #3: Continue up the dihedral and some wideness and some scrambling to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, C1. 40m.

Pitch #4: Pass a bolt (a one move wonder) and easier climbing to the very top of the tower. 5.8, 15m.

This is a late entry of a route that has until now never been recorded. I think it will provide someone a great adventure, and especially if they set out to do the FFA. Have fun!

Location 

South Side. Find the right facing dihedral and a bolt down low at the start of the face.

Rappel with two ropes at the Pitch #3 belay to the West. Possibly another rappel, then down climbing to the scree slope and walk return to the base of the route.

Protection 

One set of Camalots with extra #2-#4.5, Set of Nuts, Small selection of pitons.


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