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East Overhang T 
South East Ridge/Unicorn T 

South East Ridge/Unicorn 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on May 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Upper face toward the ridge. Steep yet very positi...

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  • Description 

    This route follows the East face of the Unicorn for the first 200 feet. After this easy warm up, you will have to move South (left) and climb a very exposed ramp on the South side of the rock that parallels the East face.

    The crux is found in the initial 30 feet of the ramp where it thins out and the overhang above you is pushing towards the Red Devil some 60 feet below. Negotiate this section and romp up to the summit.

    Descent - downclimb from the summit block to the East, and head Northwest down a broken section of rock.

    Protection 

    Standard rack.


    Photos of South East Ridge/Unicorn Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the ramp on the South side.  This is th...
    Looking up the ramp on the South side. This is th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Upper ridge. We missed the lower ramp. I saw where...
    Upper ridge. We missed the lower ramp. I saw where...

    Comments on South East Ridge/Unicorn Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Brian C.
    From: Longmont, CO
    Dec 19, 2014
    rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

    Never felt the need to be pushed left onto that lower ramp, and we stayed on the ridgeline the whole way. Maybe we came in above the overhang from the right? Whatever, it was actually a very pleasant scramble.

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