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South East Ridge/Two Move Rock T 

South East Ridge/Two Move Rock 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on May 2, 2002

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Up the ridge past the crux.

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This is a really fun short scramble. Think of it as a quick side trip on your way back from the Royal Arch. If you complete the route and follow the broken ridge at the top, you will wind up at the Sentinel pass where you will be able to pick up the trail and continue on your way back to Chautauqua.

Hop on the rock at the lowest point and work you way to the headwall that blocks access to the upper ridge. Negotiate the headwall by traversing right and head up the ridge.

Near the top, and with enough exposure to make it interesting, make two moves of thin, smeary 5.2.

Follow the ridge to Sentinel Pass


Standard rack

Photos of South East Ridge/Two Move Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crux "2 moves". Seemed ...
Looking down the crux "2 moves". Seemed ...

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By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Jul 23, 2003

Combining this route w/ the East Ridge on Hammerhead Rock then do Yodeling Moves on the back on Hammerhead makes for an excellent scramble over some beautiful rock on onto the unique summit of Hammerhead. Enjoy.
Apr 27, 2004

This is rated F4 in Roach's guidebook but I think it's more like F5. Also, Warren, please correct me if I am wrong, but I disagree with your description on two points! 1) You do not wind up at Sentinel pass after climbing this route, but above it; 2) The crux of this climb is not at the top, but is close to the bottom, just above a 2' vertical step. I add that for me, this crux is actually more like F5 than F4, i.e. the rating for this should be 5.4 instead of 5.2.
By Warren Teissier
Apr 29, 2004

Greg, it has been a while... I do not necessarily recall the details. I only remember it was short and that the two moves were a bit grippy for me (soloing).

I seem to recall the moves being somewhere in the middle at a small headwall.

Regarding Sentinel Pass, I recall walking North from the top of the rock in order to reach it. I think the terrain is higher than the pass itself so if that's what you mean by above I agree.

By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 11, 2015
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

This route is not right off the trail but about 40' uphill around another small boulder. The two move thin crux is definitely just above the 2' headwall. The route ends about 50 yards south and above Sentinel Pass. I cleared some dead branches from the top of the route. Good to go.

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