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South Dihedral 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,511
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Mar 11, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: South Dihedral route.

Description 

This route is found on the south side, to the right of where the old dirt road tops out at the base of the formation. Besides the 4th class scramble, this is probably the easiest and safest way to the summit. The hardest move on the whole route is getting off the ground. If you are tall, then reaching the high pocket jugs makes it real easy. This rock seems a bit more solid than on the North face and may even hold gear, although I soloed this line so I don't know for sure.

Descend via the guardrails and 4th class scramble.

Location 

South face, to the right of the dirt road as it reaches the base of the formation.

Protection 

Standard rack up to hand size will do just fine. Rock quality may be suspect for holding a fall.


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By kevin jenkins
Apr 11, 2006

This one might actually be safer if free-soloed, but I would not advocate this in general... instead, enjoy some of the easy scrambling and bouldering, or even some near-ground play. The rock is rather polished in spots, and the flared cracks are pretty hard to get good purchase for any real protection. Gera might help peace of mind.
By George Bracksieck
Feb 2, 2013

I soloed this in the early '70s. I thought it was fun. Part of the fun was not getting caught.

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