South Cliffs Rock Climbing
The South Cliffs of Iron Mountain offer moderate slab climbing with great views. The top of the cliff is capped by a short vertical headwall with a few hard pitches. The slabs have been set up with rap anchors at the base of the headwall for those seeking to stay on moderate terrain. All of the climbs have been established in a ground up fashion with all protection bolts placed free on the lead. There is no documentation of climbing that I have found, but these cliffs have most likely been explored by generations of valley climbers. There is potential for more great moderate pitches.
The South Cliffs of Iron Mountain can be accessed two ways.
Option 1: From the intersection of Route 16 and Route 302 in Glen, take Route 16 north heading towards Mt. Washington for 2.5 miles into the town of Jackson. Take a left at the golf course onto Green Hill road. Follow Green Hill road for 1.2 miles and turn left onto Iron Mountain road. Continue on Iron Mountain road and stay left at the fork at 0.3 miles. Continue up the hill and park at a pullout marked with a parking sign.
Cross the road to the edge of a field with a trail sign on a tree. This is the Iron Mountain trail head. Follow the foot path through the field with beautiful views of the presidential range. Follow the eroded trail marked with wooden stakes and small cairns to the summit at 0.8 miles. Follow the path downhill for another 0.7 miles to a fork. Take a right and walk across rock for 0.1 miles to the top of the South Cliffs. The approach will take about 1-1.5 hours. Rappel the cliff or bushwhack down to the base. Going left at the fork will lead down to the iron mine in 0.2 miles.
If you like to bushwhack I recommend option two…
Option 2: From the intersection of Route 16 and Route 302 in Glen, take Route 302 west heading towards the town of Bartlett. Drive for 1.0 mile and take a right onto Jericho Road. Follow Jericho Road for 2.5 miles to a gate and park. Bushwhack heading northeast following overgrown logging roads. Look for the water bars and keep the stream on your right. Eventually the road will open up with occasional cairns. Take a left and following a short run of flagging tape that gets you heading straight uphill to the base of the South Cliffs. The approach will take 1-1.5 hours.
Climbing Season For the WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area area.
Weather station 9.7 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For South Cliffs
Iron Maiden 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b New Hampshire
: WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area
: ... : South Cliffs
This climb starts in the center of the toe of the main slab. P1: Climb up the black streak past a bolt to easier terrain. Follow the left arching flake until it ends and trend left across the slab to the gear belay at the right end of Brad’s Arch?. 115’ 5.4 P2: Climb straight up the slab to a bolt. Move up and left to gain the big right facing corner and follow it until it ends. Continue up the slab to a pine tree anchor above. 105’ 5.5P3: Walk up and left on the very low angled slab to a ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 25, 2016
Dude! It's about fucking time
I used to scope these crags from harvey's condo
have you done the arete yet ?