South Cliffband Rock Climbing
Doug Couleur on the FA of Kids in Toyland (5.11c),...
This is the cliff section to the SE from the downclimb. With roughly 35 routes, this area offers numerous TR possibilities, and a wide diversity of climbing styles, from difficult thin slabs, to 5.13 cracks, to wild overhangs.
This cliff faces slightly more west than the other crags along the mesa, and so, stays in the shade a bit longer.
From the downclimb, head SE, or left. Some routes are approached from rappel from the mesa rim. For these routes, skip the downclimb and head SE along the rim trail.
Climbing Season For the Cochiti Mesa area.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Cliffband
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Cliffband:
Dynabolic 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 70'
The Prow 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Dreamscape 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For South Cliffband
Dreamscape 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a New Mexico
: Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
: ... : South Cliffband
Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish. Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
A view from the South Cliffband (looking back at w...
Another beautiful day at Cochiti. Excellent condit...
BETA PHOTO: South Cliffband Overview