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South Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 247
Submitted By: George Zack on Jun 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The whole route

Description 

Straight up the chimney until you are standing on the large chockstone. The first 25' is chossy, so be careful, but the moves are only about 5.8, and there is good gear. The rest of the route is well worth the chossy start.
From here you climb the crack just left of the wide crack if you don't want to bring off-width protection. Re-enter the wide crack briefly to pull the overhung crux at the top. Belay on gear.

Location 

Starts up the obvious wide chimney just right of the large fir tree at the base of the South Face.

Protection 

Singles to #4 Camelot. Two #3's is helpful. Nuts.


Photos of South Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Chimney.  Photo George Zack
South Chimney. Photo George Zack
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the start. Follow the crack up under...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the start. Follow the crack up under...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Thompson midway up the South Chimney.
Dave Thompson midway up the South Chimney.

Comments on South Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good seeing you up there George. Adding a top anchor to this one shouldn't be an issue.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome route! First 25' is pretty chossy, but if you're careful, it's fine, and protects fine. Once up into the slot behind the wedged block, its good rock and fun OW climbing to the roof, and then cut up under to the left and then up the hand crack to the top. Super fun. Protects well with gear to 3", with optional 4" and 5" cams.

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