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South Cave

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Flying High Again S 
Realm of the Overhang S 

South Cave Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.24382, -120.20224 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,497
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 16, 2004
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Description 

The grand South Cave at Big Chief sits above and right of the South Wall at the Southern end of the main cliff band at Big Chief, and currently offers 3 bolted routes in the .11 - .12a range on very overhung solid rock. Climbs range in height from 30 to 60'

You will find the South Cave in the sun for very little of the day, making it a great place to retreat to on a hot day. The climbing in the South Cave is some of the best at Big Chief, and is definately worth the 10 minute walk over from the more popular northern section of Big Chief.

Getting There 

Approach time: 25 - 40 minutes.

From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.

After 3/4 of a mile walking on a gentle dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.

From the north pass, hang a left around the rock, and this will take you into the center wall area. Continue past the Center Wall walking along the hillside to the other end of the cliff. The South Wall will appear in a few minutes. Walk past the South Wall uphill and around to the left, where you will see the bolts of the South Cave higher up the hillside.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Cave:
Realm of the Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Flying High Again   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Cave

Featured Route For South Cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Overhung enough for ya?  Hope so.

Flying High Again 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : South Cave
The rightmost route in the cave, Flying High Again follows a juggy crack system on very overhung traversy terrain for the first 4 bolts. Moving to the second bolt can be akward, but hands improve from then on. The crux is after the fourth bolt as the climb begins to move more vertically up to the final ledge. Make sure you've got someone to follow you, since cleaning this overhung traverse would be a pain on rappell....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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