REI Community
South Canyon Wall

Select Route:
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 
Getting The Bob S 
Golden Showers S,TR 
Hobo Testes S 
Men Without Egos S 
Spermatose S,TR 

South Canyon Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 2,387
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
This Afternoon

46° | 41°

46° | 37°

51° | 35°

60° | 38°

63° | 40°

63° | 39°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Leading Men Without Egos, my buddy who took the pi...


The south wall of Falling Rock Canyon sees much less traffic, and the climbs are harder to find. The aspect of the cliff is north facing, so it is a good wall to climb on in the afternoon with shade offered. The climbing is mainly on bolted vertical limestone faces with small pockets. There are only a handful of routes to be done here.

Getting There 

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff .7 miles after turning off highway 44. Follow an old dirt road east from the parking lot. Go straight at the first intersection, then continue up a small hill to the cliff crest. Head left on an obscure road following the cliff top. Eventually, you'll notice that you are running parallel to the North Canyon Wall, and descending slightly.

At this point, a faint trail heads right to a rock protrusion with a couple routes (Spermatose - 5.9, and up), and another trail continues straight to another protrusion with a few routes (Better a Has Been - 5.8 and up).

Climbing Season

For the Falling Rock area.

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Canyon Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Canyon Wall:
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Spermatose   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Canyon Wall

Featured Route For South Canyon Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Men Without Egos, my buddy who took the pi...

Men Without Egos 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  South Dakota : Rapid City Area : ... : South Canyon Wall
To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, m...[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Comments on South Canyon Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Fischer
Oct 10, 2006
there was a rattle snake spotted on the trail above men without egos on Sunday (10-8-06) so watch your step.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About