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South Canyon (aka Last Wall)

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Lower West Side 
Mid West - Lower (FZ) Wall, The 
Mid West - North End, The 
Mid West - South End, The 
Upper West Side 
Upper West Side - Gully Wall 

South Canyon (aka Last Wall) Rock Climbing 


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Location: 48.63973, -119.44864 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: applewood on Jan 17, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: The South Canyon from high up on the MC road.

Description 

The long east facing side of the lower Main Canyon with a high concentration of quality routes. Has been divided into several sub areas for the purpose of this guide (listed from north to south):

1) Upper West Side - Gully Wall - 7 sport and mixed routes (5.3 to 5.8)
2) Upper West Side - 19 sport, mixed and trad routes (5.3 to 5.11a)
3) The Mid West - Lower (FZ) Wall - 16 sport, mixed and trad climbs (5.4 to 5.11c)
4) The Mid West - North End - 4 sport, mixed and trad routes (5.8 to 10b)
5) The Mid West - South End - Area south of the large corner system - 2 sport routes (5.9 and 10b)
6) Lower West Side - Area at the far south end, 8 sport routes (5.9 to 5.11c)

Generally this is a large, high quality, somewhat remote area with nice views, easy access and mostly great rock. There are reports of some of the cracks and even faces being climbed previously as gear routes, but there is no beta available publicly online about this. * It would be nice if these lines stay trad, so be aware if doing route development not to place bolts where trad gear will do.

When to climb;
Despite what MP indicates with their climbing season chart (below) the best seasons to climb at MC are when the snakes are hibernating - which is usually from late October to early April. Depending on the weather conditions rock climbing may be possible any of these winter months, but it's usually perfect by late February or early March. Climbing is also good the rest of the year and can be very hot in the summer, but early mornings are often tolerable.

Getting There 

After 15 minutes of hiking down the Main Canyon you'll reach the large open meadow. The trail continues south and passes through a gate (marked "leaving public lands"), at this point walk along the fence to the west and step across at a large boulder. Contrary to the signage most of the field and all of the cliffs on the west side are BLM lands, but they are apparently leased for local ranch use. For the Upper West Side cliff turn right before the fence and head to the base via the trail on the right..., or access the top of the cliff by the game/climbers trail up the gully on the right.

Climbing Season

For the Okanogan area.

Weather station 8.9 miles from here

56 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',7],['5.8',7],['5.9',12],['5.10',16],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Canyon (aka Last Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Canyon (aka Last Wall):
Hot Rats   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 75'   The Mid West - Lower (FZ) W...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Canyon (aka Last Wall)

Featured Route For South Canyon (aka Last Wall)
Rock Climbing Photo: It Can't Happen Here topo

It Can't Happen Here 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Washington : Okanogan : ... : The Mid West - Lower (FZ) W...
IT CAN’T HAPPEN HERE - 5.11c **** 65’ F (7b)Climbs the middle of the overhanging section on the far left end of FZ Wall to the chain anchors on the huge boulder at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of South Canyon (aka Last Wall) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: SE Buttress of the Main Canyon from the south end ...
SE Buttress of the Main Canyon from the south end ...
Rock Climbing Photo: South Canyon and the SE Buttress from the far sout...
South Canyon and the SE Buttress from the far sout...
Rock Climbing Photo: South Canyon from the south
South Canyon from the south
Rock Climbing Photo: South Canyon in mid-January from the NE (from the ...
BETA PHOTO: South Canyon in mid-January from the NE (from the ...

Comments on South Canyon (aka Last Wall) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mountain Heather
Nov 10, 2014
I loved climbing here today! The area is beautiful and the climbs really fun - safe, well bolted and cleaned. Even the trad route we did needed the top anchors to lower from - glad they were there!
By Phil Gleason
Mar 8, 2015
Heather: There you go again: calling a rock climb “safe.” I’m worried that such a mindset could cause one to get injured. Now, I know there are those who have advertised “safe, adventure rock climbs.” I believe that if one thinks about it one can see the dichotomy in that logic.
Heather, if one is high enough that a fall to the ground could shatter a femur, lacerate a liver, crush a vertebrae, puncture a lung, or fracture a skull then one is no longer “safe.”

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