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Shoshoni Peak
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South Buttress 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gay, McClannan 7/11
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Kent McClannan on Jul 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitches 4-6.


This route climbs the obvious south facing rib/ buttress on West Shoshoni- located east of the buttress which the Lowe/ Dieckoff route ascends. This rockaneering route climbs a major feature, and although it has several good pitches -be prepared for some loose rock.

Route description:

P1. Climb the short crack to the ledge, 5.7.

P2. Climb the flake and face above to access the rightward-angling crack system. Follow this to the next ledge, 5.8.

P3. Scramble up and right ascending the small pillar, 5.6.

P4. Climb the crack system above with some tricky gear placements. At the roof, move left and up the steep twin cracks (crux - excellent protection). The last section of this pitch has some loose blocks, 5.10.

P5. Climb the flake systems on the right side of the pillar, 5.8.

P6. Continue up the beautiful curving crack, 5.10-.

From here, it is possible to scramble to the summit blocks and descend NE to the gully that splits East and West Shoshoni. Depending on the conditions in the gully/ couloir, several raps may be required.


Standard rack.

Photos of South Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: South Buttress.
South Buttress.

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