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South Buttress

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Ball Field Slabs 
Old Quarry Walls 
Overlook Routes 

South Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,608
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
Forecast:
This Afternoon

42° | 31°
Monday

42° | 31°
Tuesday

43° | 36°
Wednesday

45° | 36°
Thursday

47° | 32°
Friday

40° | 27°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.

THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',5],['5.11',8],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Buttress:
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ball Field Slabs
Happiness Is a Warm Drill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   Old Quarry Walls
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Psychonautics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Old Quarry Walls
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Ball Field Slabs
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ball Field Slabs
Cloud Surfing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   Old Quarry Walls
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   Old Quarry Walls
Slightly Removed   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 100'   Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ball Field Slabs
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Old Quarry Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Shylo starting up on the FFA

The Tree of Life 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Old Quarry Walls
This route gets my vote as one of the best 5.11's in the state. On the short side, but very sweet. It has great rock quality and very cool angular, geometric holds and nice technical flowing moves. If you like pinches and weird technical climbing on good rock this is the route for you! Stick clip the first bolt and utilize a small pocket to gain a jug rail. Then climb pinches and edges into a technical crux in a shallow corner. Take it home to the anchor with victory jugs....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.