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South Buttress

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South Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,056
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.

THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',5],['5.11',8],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Buttress:
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Ball Field Slabs
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ball Field Slabs
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Happiness Is a Warm Drill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   Old Quarry Walls
Psychonautics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Old Quarry Walls
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Ball Field Slabs
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ball Field Slabs
Cloud Surfing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   Old Quarry Walls
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   Old Quarry Walls
Slightly Removed   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 100'   Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ball Field Slabs
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Old Quarry Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route from the anchors.  Desparet...

Slightly Removed 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Connecticut : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Old Quarry Walls
The stunning obvious golden wall on the left face opposite of Desparete. Start up a small corner, then make boulder moves out a bulge. Climb into a huge bomb bay corner reminiscent of a desert corner. Climb up a splitter crack through a roof, then onto a slab. The crux is at the very end move slightly right then up to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Connecticut

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.

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