South Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park
The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.
THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!
A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!
Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Buttress:
Featured Route For South Buttress
The Tree of Life 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CT
: Western Coastal Slope
: ... : Old Quarry Walls
This route gets my vote as one of the best 5.11's in the state. On the short side, but very sweet. It has great rock quality and very cool angular, geometric holds and nice technical flowing moves. If you like pinches and weird technical climbing on good rock this is the route for you! Stick clip the first bolt and utilize a small pocket to gain a jug rail. Then climb pinches and edges into a technical crux in a shallow corner. Take it home to the anchor with victory jugs....[more] Browse More Classics in CT
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.