REI Community
Corona/Dos Equis Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chihuahua T 
Flare Play T 
Highwayman, The T 
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 
Scare Way T 
Secondary Inspection T 
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 
South Buttress T 
Tecate T 
Tres Equis T 

South Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on May 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Corona and Dos Equis Wall


This route climgs the buttress to the right of the Dos Equis Face. It's a nice featured face, steep in areas, and provides a significantly easier alternative to many of the climbs out on the face itself. The summit is nice, so give this climb a shot.

The crux here is right off the deck -- the first 20 feet or so are steep and bouldery, and pro is somewhat thin. About 70 feet up, you'll get to a spot where you may want to build an anchor to climb this thing in two pitches. Save yourself a bunch of time -- keep climbing!! Although you can't tell from here, there's only about 10 more feet of 5th class from this point.


Standard rack. Long slings for belay.

Photos of South Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading partway up South Buttress.  Anchored previ...
Leading partway up South Buttress. Anchored previ...
Rock Climbing Photo: South Buttress
BETA PHOTO: South Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Optional belay at the base of the crack seen in th...
BETA PHOTO: Optional belay at the base of the crack seen in th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: The buttress...
BETA PHOTO: The buttress...

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003

It's a full 200' (60m) to the top, but as Brian states, it eases up to low 5th class for the last bit. To descend, scramble down to climber's right.
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Apr 24, 2007

This was a fun climb. We broke it into two pitches because we didn't know what to expect on the summit. This worked out well for us as it gave us both some lead fun. The obvious belay for the second pitch is at the base of 20 or so foot off width (not steep). If you do it in two pitches and want a quick anchor, walk up the summit slab to two south facing bolts (one of which is loose). The most difficult part of this moderate route is the first 15 feet off the deck, in my opinion.
By attila
Jan 24, 2010

Do this in two pitches. A 60 meter rope is barely enough otherwise, and the rope drag is hellacious. To corroborate another commenter, the first part off the ground is the crux. The anchors at the summit are fine to rap off the west face.
By alex carey
Nov 21, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Thought it a little spicy in the beginning. Got off the ground with 2 moves and realized I still couldn't get any good gear in for another move. I did it in 1 pitch and built a gear anchor at the top but having now read the comments I could have just walked 20 more feet to the bolts.

The climb breaks down into 4 parts. First 25 feet is the hardest most vertical part, then a bunch of class 4 scrambling, then a 20 foot off width, chimney thing, and finally a 10 foot itty bitty easily protected mantle/crux that once on top you can just walk up.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About