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Mount Woolsey
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South Arete T 

South Arete 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: T. H. Rawles & W. B. Willcox (1933)
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: Sarah Meiser on Aug 31, 2015

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Mount Woolsey. The South Arete is the right skylin...

Description 

Follow Mount Woolsey's narrow and exciting south arete from the Woolsey - Innominate col as it climbs 600 vertical feet to the summit over the course of a very rugged 0.17 miles. The route starts out as a 3rd and 4th class scramble but almost immediately ramps up to 5th class terrain. Get the rope out when you feel it's warranted. Bypass numerous large and imposing gendarmes, sometimes on the east side, and sometimes on the west. We ended up climbing 5 roped pitches. The rock is high quality, the climbing fun, and the position and views out of this world!

More details can be found here: Trip Report

Location 

Reach the Woolsey - Innominate col from either the north or the south. The southern approach requires ascending a steep, loose gully with occasional 5th class moves. The northern approach was used by the first ascent party and I get the impression that it is friendlier.

To descend, either reverse the route or rappel the Northwest Buttress (two ropes recommended).

Protection 

Not knowing what to expect I took a set of nuts and a set of cams 0.3 to 3 with doubles in 0.5 to 2. Experienced alpine climbers should be fine with single sets of nuts and cams. There are no fixed anchors of any sort. Bring plenty of webbing for rappel anchors as you are unlikley to find any that is usable.


Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild gendarme we bypassed on our 2nd pitch.
Wild gendarme we bypassed on our 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the summit.
Nearing the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Atop our 4th pitch. Much of the exposed arete can ...
Atop our 4th pitch. Much of the exposed arete can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposed traverse past a gendarme on our 2nd pitch.
Exposed traverse past a gendarme on our 2nd pitch.

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