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Bear Mountain Slab T 
South Arete T 

South Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Jul 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Mark C. pulling through to gain the arete.

Description 

This is the first established route encountered as one reaches the base of the West Slab.

P1: scramble up a small gully to a tree, and begin climbing to the right of an obvious bolted line (route #2 on the first slab). The line ascends a dihedral that becomes a flake, and then goes on up the face to a 2-bolt belay/rap station.

P2: climb up and to the right, into the large dihedral, where it is possible to traverse right on to a vertical face with large footholds. There are 2 bolts visible on this face (see photo). After traversing the face, gain the arete proper, which is easy but very exposed climbing. Follow the arete up past some natural gear and a couple of more bolts to the 2-bolt rap station.

Location 

This is on the right hand side of Slab 1.

Protection 

A small rack up to a #3 Camalot, slings.


Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The skyline ridge is the South Arete.  Tyler rappe...
The skyline ridge is the South Arete. Tyler rappe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on Slab 1 from the arete.
Looking down on Slab 1 from the arete.

Comments on South Arete Add Comment
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By Audrey Wheeler
Jul 5, 2017

Use a 70m rope for this! Start by scrambling up the gulley on the right that has more than two trees in it. Once you reach the largest tree, you can see a bolt above you. The first pitch is a 5.5 slab, with 4 broadly spaced bolts leading to a two bolt anchor. We used additional protection, but it's not necessary.

For the second pitch (5.7+), traverse right over large, loose rocks to the dihedral where you can see two bolts. Climb to the first bolt, and then traverse to your right underneath it. Hands get a little thin, but you have great feet until you get around the corner and grab a jug. Continue up on lichen-covered rock, which becomes easy and slabby again. There is one more bolt on the way up to a two-bolt anchor.

Rapping from the top anchors involves an awkward move over a blind edge but takes you to the first belay station.

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