REI Community
The Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Question of Balance S 
Banana Peel T 
Boomstick Crack T 
Bottom Line, The T 
Calculus Crack T 
Calculus Direct T 
Crack Slabbeth T 
Crossing, The S 
Dances with Pigs S 
Dancing in the Light T 
Dessert Dike T,S 
Diamondback T 
Diedre T 
Dream Symphony T 
Edge of Anxiety T 
Form S 
Granville Street T 
Great Arch, The S 
Karen's Math T 
Long Time No See T 
Memorial Crack T 
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 
Over The Rainbow T,S 
Pineapple Peel T 
Rambles T 
Rock On T 
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 
Sickle T 
Slab Alley T 
Snake T 
South Arete T 
Sparrow T 
St. Vitus' Dance T 
Start From Scratch T 
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 
Unfinished Symphony T,S 
Vector T 
Voodoo Amour T 
Whirlwind T 
White Lightning T 

South Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,745
Submitted By: Robert Fisher on May 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Crack that starts off Pitch 5 of the South Arete r...


P1: Climb the steep 3" crack for 20' where the angle backs down and the crack widens to 4"-5". Belay just below the obvious crux bulge, or at the flakes about 20' below. 5.8

p2: Climb through the bulge. It's easier than it looks. Climb up the 5.6 3" crack to a small dirt ledge, belay here on gear. 5.9 (crux)

Note: P1 was more difficult than P2.

p3: Scamper up the low-angle slab to the top, using the crack as necessary for pro. 5.4?


Approach via the steep tree and dirt pitches (5.8, 5.8) of St. Vitus Dance or Calculus Crack. Take the steep trail with fixed line to the left of St Vitus Dance P1. This leads to a 3" crack; the first pitch of South Arete.

Descend by scrambling to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down. There are no bolted anchors on the South Arete. Rappelling would require leaving gear.


Single rack to 1", doubles #2-#4 (Camalot sizes)

Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slabby climbing on Pitch 5 of the South Arete rout...
BETA PHOTO: Slabby climbing on Pitch 5 of the South Arete rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: We went a bit too high on Pitch 3/4 of St. Vitus' ...
BETA PHOTO: We went a bit too high on Pitch 3/4 of St. Vitus' ...

Comments on South Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 25, 2010

This climb deserves more attention than it gets. Mellower than St. Vitus, more actual crack climbing than I remember Calculus having-- especially if you do the new start to Calculus to get to it--and no crowded belays!

link to info about new start to Calculus area:
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

FA: Fred Beckey, Hank Mather, Don Claunch, 1959

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About