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South Arete 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,971
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: climbing found along the first pitch...slabby, ple...

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  • Description 

    This route appears in Rossiter's book in detail and description, but in name was mistakenly called "North Arete." Start at the lowest point of the First Flatironette, at its south-most ridge and climb to the summit. Along the way there are many opportunities for moves harder than 5.2, but always a chance to avoid them. This route is probably 4th class, in reality. It ascends 400+ feet of climbing on a rock which is probably 300' tall. Along the way you come to several false summits, similar to the N. Ridge of the first flatiron, but not as clean. To descend from the Summit, hop off to the NW, go up to the NW around the summit of The Spy and take the Spy Express trail North of the spy back East and then south to the base of the First Flatironette.

    Protection 

    A light rack, or a good solo. The climb is reasonably broken up into shorter sections with good stances and rests, to be done as a solo. If lead, these same discontinuities will creat hassle and drag if you place more than an occasional piece.


    Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Tucker approaching what I'm pretty sure is th...
    Matt Tucker approaching what I'm pretty sure is th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the south arete, left of a large pine tre...
    BETA PHOTO: Start of the south arete, left of a large pine tre...

    Comments on South Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Peter D Daniels
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 31, 2017
    rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

    Staying at or very near the ridge crest definitely puts the climb into the 5.2 or so range. There were several of these sections, but they are short and a less exposed. Most of the climb is more Class 4, maybe some 5.0. Totally fun. Descent includes walking up after the summit of the First Flatironette, up and around to the west, then north around The Spy, connecting with the Spy Express trail.

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