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South Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Above My Pay Grade S 
Alley Cat T 
Around Town S 
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S,TR 
Bolt It and They Will Come S 
Clip Art S 
Drunk Dumb-Ass S 
Fox Trap S 
Hail of a Traverse T 
Juvenile S 
Nothing Dynamic About It S 
O'Shit Approved S 
Off My Ass S 
Old Plank Road S 
Owl Eyes S 
Plan B S 
Skunk Compas S 
Slab Town S 
Squirel Eye T,TR 
Sunny Place For Shady People S 
Walk The Plank S 
Welcome to the Garden S 
Whiskey Throttle S 
Window of Opportunity S 

South Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.83282, -92.40041 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,618
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016  with updates from Marcus Floyd and 1 more
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Hanging with the crew Feb 2017

Description 

This specific Providence South Area wall was first mentioned back in the Mid 90's "Climber's Guide to the Midwest", as the Pocket Wall. Many of the sport lines were bolted more recently, between 2005 and 2010, with the goal of finding quality lines of resistance for both beginners and seasoned leaders. One of the original trad lines follow a 100 foot traverse left along a crack which starts on a slab, heads under a long roof section to a ledge at the base of a drainage called The Alley, then finishes following The Alley up to rap anchors. This trad line is called "Hail of a Traverse."


If climbing during the summer, this area is shaded, but best climbed in the morning, due to the cliffs south west exposure. During the winter, late in the day will prove to be a warming reminder of why you love to climb.

South Providence is currently home to a wide variety of sport route difficulties, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13. A couple mixed routes provide traditionalist with gear placement options, but for the most part established route follow sport route bolted anchors. As of 2016, around 30 routes are bolted, or established, as free climbs.

Getting There 

Park at the Providence Access parking lot, then head east on the trail.

Climbing Season

For the CM: Providence area.

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Area:
Juvenile   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Owl Eyes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Sunny Place For Shady People   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Drunk Dumb-Ass   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Around Town   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Area

Featured Route For South Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Quite a fun moderate

Fox Trap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Missouri : CM: Providence : South Area
Fox Trap hole can be climbed as a single pitch, or feel free to rap off the mid-ledge rap anchors. When setting the anchor for this line, I found a rusted fox trap at the top of the route so I placed it at the rap anchors, connected for future climbers to see. The top face does not have rap anchors, as of 2012.The crux tends to be the bulges. The first one is to the left of the Fox Hole and then the second bulge is climbed about eight feet further left. Head back right the gain the rap anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Photos of South Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab Town rock face looming over the trees at Pock...
BETA PHOTO: Slab Town rock face looming over the trees at Pock...

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