Hanging with the crew Feb 2017
This specific Providence South Area wall was first mentioned back in the Mid 90's "Climber's Guide to the Midwest", as the Pocket Wall. Many of the sport lines were bolted more recently, between 2005 and 2010, with the goal of finding quality lines of resistance for both beginners and seasoned leaders. One of the original trad lines follow a 100 foot traverse left along a crack which starts on a slab, heads under a long roof section to a ledge at the base of a drainage called The Alley, then finishes following The Alley up to rap anchors. This trad line is called "Hail of a Traverse."
If climbing during the summer, this area is shaded, but best climbed in the morning, due to the cliffs south west exposure. During the winter, late in the day will prove to be a warming reminder of why you love to climb.
South Providence is currently home to a wide variety of sport route difficulties, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13. A couple mixed routes provide traditionalist with gear placement options, but for the most part established route follow sport route bolted anchors. As of 2016, around 30 routes are bolted, or established, as free climbs.
Park at the Providence Access parking lot, then head east on the trail.
Climbing Season For the CM: Providence area.
Weather station 8.7 miles from here
24 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Area:
Juvenile 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Owl Eyes 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 50'
Featured Route For South Area
Fox Trap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Missouri
: CM: Providence
: South Area
Fox Trap hole can be climbed as a single pitch, or feel free to rap off the mid-ledge rap anchors. When setting the anchor for this line, I found a rusted fox trap at the top of the route so I placed it at the rap anchors, connected for future climbers to see. The top face does not have rap anchors, as of 2012.The crux tends to be the bulges. The first one is to the left of the Fox Hole and then the second bulge is climbed about eight feet further left. Head back right the gain the rap anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Missouri
BETA PHOTO: Slab Town rock face looming over the trees at Pock...