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South Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Above My Pay Grade S 
Alley Cat T 
Around Town S 
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S,TR 
Bolt It and They Will Come S 
Clip Art S 
Drunk Dumb-Ass S 
Fox Trap S 
Hail of a Traverse T 
Juvenile S 
Nothing Dynamic About It S 
O'Shit Approved S 
Off My Ass S 
Old Plank Road S 
Owl Eyes S 
Plan B S 
Skunk Compas S 
Slab Town S 
Squirel Eye T,TR 
Sunny Place For Shady People S 
Walk The Plank S 
Welcome to the Garden S 
Whiskey Throttle S 
Window of Opportunity S 

South Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.83282, -92.40041 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,142
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016  with updates from Marcus Floyd and 1 more
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Hanging with the crew Feb 2017

Description 

This specific Providence South Area wall was first mentioned back in the Mid 90's "Climber's Guide to the Midwest", as the Pocket Wall. Many of the sport lines were bolted more recently, between 2005 and 2010, with the goal of finding quality lines of resistance for both beginners and seasoned leaders. One of the original trad lines follow a 100 foot traverse left along a crack which starts on a slab, heads under a long roof section to a ledge at the base of a drainage called The Alley, then finishes following The Alley up to rap anchors. This trad line is called "Hail of a Traverse."


If climbing during the summer, this area is shaded, but best climbed in the morning, due to the cliffs south west exposure. During the winter, late in the day will prove to be a warming reminder of why you love to climb.

South Providence is currently home to a wide variety of sport route difficulties, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13. A couple mixed routes provide traditionalist with gear placement options, but for the most part established route follow sport route bolted anchors. As of 2016, around 30 routes are bolted, or established, as free climbs.

Getting There 

Park at the Providence Access parking lot, then head east on the trail.

Climbing Season

For the CM: Providence area.

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Area:
Juvenile   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Owl Eyes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Sunny Place For Shady People   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Drunk Dumb-Ass   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Around Town   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Area

Featured Route For South Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Around Town

Around Town 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Missouri : CM: Providence : South Area
Steep face leads to an obvious open dihedral below a roof and horizontal crack. Clip the permadraws and traverse right along the crack to the next bolt with chain. Feel free to place a small cam if you like or just dig in and reach for the good holds. Smear and step up right to the small ledge then continue up the seam then left to the rap anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Photos of South Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab Town rock face looming over the trees at Pock...
BETA PHOTO: Slab Town rock face looming over the trees at Pock...

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