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South and East Faces

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
TAD T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

South and East Faces Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.58992, -104.71549 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,527
Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
Forecast:
Tonight

11°
Sunday

27° | 8°
Monday

15° | -8°
Tuesday

11° | -6°
Wednesday

14° | 0°
Thursday

15° | -3°
You & This Area
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El cracko and soler getting climbed

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.

Getting There 

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South and East Faces

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South and East Faces:
TAD   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
El Cracko Diablo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Bon Homme Variation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Soler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Walt Bailey   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Cave   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hollywood & Vine   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 270'   
Dusk In Dogtown   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Double Indemnity   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 130'   
Soler Eclipse   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Direct Southeast   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Rocksuckers   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 160'   
Animal Cracker Land   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Let Me Go Wild   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South and East Faces

Featured Route For South and East Faces
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill lugg getting that stem on double indemnity.  ...

Double Indemnity 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
This route is not as famous as El Matador, but the concept is the same; protect in a finger crack and jam/stem your way up the opposed dihedrals. Once the crack thins to tips up high, make a hard traverse right around a column and follow an easier crack to anchors in about 15 ft. This route puts you within spitting distance of the 1893 ladder. Look, but don't touch!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of South and East Faces Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach hike.
Approach hike.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summer evening
Summer evening
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Tower... as the Prairie Dogs see it every m...
Devils Tower... as the Prairie Dogs see it every m...

Comments on South and East Faces Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2002
This approach is generally known as The Ramp. It can be very frightening when wet or icy in places - especially going up to Bon Homme or around past the Soler/TAD area.

The best descent route is the Meadows rappel. The Bon Homme rappels have some scary downclimbing and the Durrance rappels are almost always cloged with people climbing up. Be careful of rope eating cracks when pulling rap lines.
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2002
I have heard this area described as the "bowling alley". Many routes, and the most popular rappel all funnel into the same small area. I have seen a climber incapacitated by rockfall when this area was hoppin'. A brain bucket is not a bad idea here.
By Joe Dawson
Jun 1, 2009
This approach has a couple of exposed 4th class moves on it. If you are not comfortable with that, I would rope up for it.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 13, 2010
The Meadows rappel route can be done from the summit with a 70M. There is about 3ft to spare on each rappel except for the last one that ends at the beginning of the ramp. You will need to down climb about 5ft from a good stance.

Don't get your ropes stuck! Self rescue with a single rope might be a difficult.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Oct 21, 2014
I would say that the best descent route for this zone (possibly for the whole DeTow) is the Exit Us rap. This is the rap that starts with the two-bolt anchor on top of Cracko Diablo. With about 10' of 4th class downclimbing, a 70m double-rope rappel will reach the ledge at the base of Soler/TAD/Cracko. Watch your ends!

Alternatively, you can take one 70m rope and hit all the stations, getting back to the ledge in 3 or 4 raps.

IMO this area offers the least potential for getting ropes stuck, but pay attention to those below you. Cracko Diablo often has people on it.

By Dustin Stephens
May 19, 2016
First rap from the Meadows needs some chain pretty badly, as the current setup adds a ton of drag right at the anchor. In the meantime, pull the right strand of your rope rather than the left to minimize the chance of the rope getting stuck up top.