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Sotol Roof 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 19, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Scott Jones finishing up the moderate climbing on ...


This route is all about the roof. The corner system leading up to the roof is well protected 5.7 and has ample stemming opportunities. The roof move is very exciting though, and will stretch you out as you grapple over the lip. A key hold as you pull over the roof is a fragile-looking horn, which adds additional spice. Do you crank on the horn and risk popping it and you off into air? or do you avoid it and increase the difficulty of the moves. Immediately above the roof is a ledge which provides a good belay stance. This ledge is 30m off the ground and no fixed gear is currently present.

From the sotol ledge a large crack system can be followed for another 25m (5.5?) and one can then reach the anchors for Checkmate off to the left.


Located to the right of the popular Cross-trainer, this route is easily identified by a small roof crowned by a solitary Sotol bush. For those of you unfamiliar with the local flora, a Sotol resembles a yucca from afar, but can be easily distinguished by its serrated leaves, which droop more than yucca. The route climbs directly up into the roof, and then meanders upwards until it joins with the anchor for Checkmate.


well protected by your standard set of cams and/or wires. The roof crux has good horizontals which will accept cams/tricams, but appears slightly crumbly. I recommend backing up the crux before launching into the roof.

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By DayJohnson
From: AZ
Jan 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The horn is no longer there.

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