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Fairfield East
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Unsorted Routes:

Sorta Maybe Kinda Wild 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Branscomb c. 2000
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: richard magill on May 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

Great line that burls up a slightly overhanging dihedral, then changes character completely with a testy face traverse.

Super fun - there are big flanges to pull on in the dihedral, and always decent stemming you can get going to keep any pump down. But the moves are continuous and fun. Then the face traverse is a real shift in tactics after all the stemming!

The book gave this route no stars, which I assume is because they never did this line? At any rate I think it is one of the best 10a sport climbs I've ever done. Do it if you are in the area!

Location 

Roughly in the middle of Fairfield East is a long tall route called Blind (11+). Pretty obvious. Just down the hill is a little buttress with a new red-tagged line on an arete. In the shallow dihedral to the right of this is SMKW.

Protection 

9 bolts to anchors


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By Charlie Jonas
From: Jackson, Wyoming
May 19, 2014

Super fun route. Definitely worth doing if your at the wall.

Beta Spoiler: Stay low on the traverse all the way over to where it merges into the next line. Its tempting to try and cut off the corner of the traverse but you'll quickly find yourself on a blank face.

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