||Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 300'
|Original: ||WI4 [details]|
|FA: ||Charlie Beard, Jesse Colangelo-Lillis, Matt Dobbs - Feb 28, 2016|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||202|
|Submitted By: ||Matt D on Mar 2, 2016|
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Jesse CL on the left side wall of Sorry, Kevin gul...
P1 15 m. NEI 1-2: Ramble up a very short step up to a snow ramp that leads to a belay where rock shelters from ice funnelled down the gully. [Suggest NOT to belay below the snow step, which is exposed to ice fall.]
P2 45m, NEI 3: Climb the gully. Staying in the gully proper provides the easiest path, with a couple short sections of NEI3. Going right from the belay or taking to ice on the gully walls provide spicier options. Belay at a sheltered stance to the right on rock. (there is a small evergreen tree slung for rappel just below this)
P3 30m, NEI 4 Move back into the gully and climb a 10m snow ramp to the hanging columns that mark the main fun for this climb. 20m of narrow, featured climbing up the gully on columns that are steep, but offer plenty of rest points.
Descent: Rappel from a V-thread or shrubs above P2 that will take you to the slung evergreen at the top of P1.
Route is located in the gully just right of the Feline wall in Panther gorge,
Base of Route: GPS: 44.113707 north, -73.907068 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587457 4885082
Refer to Kevin Mudrat Mackenzie’s excellent Panther Gorge overview materials at (
www.mackenziefamily.com/46/panthergorge/panther-gorge-interactive-aerial.html ) and the Panther Gorge area rock description ( www.mountainproject.com/v/panther-gorge/109235496 ) to locate the Feline wall/slab and this gully.
Note: This climb follows a gully that funnels falling ice. Choosing safe belays on this route is dictated by finding sheltered stances from ice coming down from above.
Standard rack of ice screws + minimal rock gear (some medium nuts).
Cord for V-thread(s).
BETA PHOTO: Route, as seen from the base Feb 28, 2016.