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The Sorcerer
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Sorcerer's Crossing T 
Sorcerer, The T 

Sorcerer's Crossing 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 280', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Craig Luebben, Jeff Achey
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 1,460
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Craig Lubben laybacking the "calf lock" ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This challenging route has been described as the "hardest offwidth tower in the desert."

The four pitch route starts on the right side of the Sorcerer pillar linking up with the final pitch of the Sorcerer.

P1: (5.12-) 130' Starts as a chimney and transitions into 30' of splitter butterfly/calf-locks. The last 30' section is a challenging squeeze chimney. A sustained and technical pitch.

P2: (5.10) 75' Straight forward offwidth.

P3: (5.2?) 20' Weird traverse behind the tower to the original route.

P4: (5.11+) 80' This pitch is the original finish on the "Sorcerer." Intimidating chimney and squeeze to the top of the tower.


Starts on the right side of the "Sorcerer" and you rappel down the left side.


From finger size up to Blue Big-Bros. The first pitch takes alot of #5 BD cams, and the final pitch is difficult to protect. All anchors replaced Spring 2010.

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By Shanti
Jun 5, 2010

Offwidth visionaries Craig Leubben and Jeff Achey teamed up to establish one of the finest and hardest offwidth towers in the desert. Pitch 1 will crush your ego and Pitch 4 will crush your soul!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 5, 2010

awesome comment!

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