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West Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

Sorcerer's Apprentice 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Laurel Miller, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 966
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 18, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Yvonne stemming past the first bolt.

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  • Description 

    This fun little route ascends the west-facing wall behind the Wall of The Goddess buttress. Approach as for Wall of The Goddess, then continue around (east) to the boulder gully at the bottom of Charon's Boat. Hike to the top of the gully and turn left.

    Step left from a flat block and climb excellent rock to the top of the wall. It is possible to climb past the 2-ring anchor and belay from a tree on the ledge beneath the Wall of The Dragon.

    Protection 

    3 bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Lower off. Supplemental gear may be used up to 1.5 inches.


    Photos of Sorcerer's Apprentice Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer's Apprentice. A fun moderate route. The h...
    BETA PHOTO: Sorcerer's Apprentice. A fun moderate route. The h...

    Comments on Sorcerer's Apprentice Add Comment
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    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 20, 2005
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    A nice warm-up route that gets good afternoon sun. The hardest move is getting to the anchor from the last bolt; come in from the left to keep the grade moderate.

    Great views looking up the canyon from the saddle just above the start; the huge rock spanning the gully is amazing.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    You can also climb this thing belly to the bolts past the last clip and to the anchors without going left, which it looked like the bolt line was trying to force. Small slopers will be on the menu and it is probably 5.11b or so, done that way.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jul 5, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The crux is definitely above the last bolt, and moving left keeps the route 5.7.

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