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Sophie's Choice 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brayne Varner
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: drjman on Mar 9, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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To the right of The Pups Are Doggin' It. Shares the same chain anchors.


3 bolts, shared chain anchors

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By duh
Mar 11, 2016

I'm so confused.... Things were happening so fast in the beginning, new routes going in daily. And my memory isn't what it used to be.

Origionally, I thought I remembered having some (minor?) involvement in that route... And rating it 5.9, don't remember what it was called. Then later hearing it was called " A Large Bag...." I was somewhat confused because I thought that was what Brad had called his route on Roadside West.

Then last year or so, some guy, can't remember his user name posted that he had done the route and called it "Sophia's Choice" He posted a story, that he had borrowed a drill from me and I helped him with the route. Thing is, after hearing his story, I seem to remember, that's what happened..... I think.

The story is somewhere on this site, not sure but I think it was a post in some thread. I'm knot tetchy enough to find it, but maybe one of you smart guys could find it.

Additionally this route and Brad's route on Roadside West both have 3 bolts and face in a similar direction.

My best guess is that the route is called "Sofia's Choice" . Fa, that guy who told the story and that Brad's route on Roadside West was originally called "A Large Bag....."

To add a little more history.... The 1st time I drove in to NJC to check it out with Mark Manyard and Dave Springer, the only thing we did other than drive and walk around checking it out was to top rope, what became Brad's route on Roadside West.

Edit, so after posting I searched Sophie's Choice.... And there it was on a Russ Wallings photo as a comment.... Guy even remembered what kind of drill I had. His name is Brayne Varner.
By drjman
Mar 11, 2016

Here is the comment you're thinking of. I remember talking about this one.

Brayne Varner is the commenter
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent work, case closed!
By IanRB
Mar 21, 2016

Did a major hold or two break off of this? Climbed it on 3/20/16 and it seemed way trickier than a 10a. Beginning sequence is an easy jug haul, but halfway up the holds disappear except for tiny crimps, slopes or slopey crimps. Maybe I'm just being a giant wuss, but something seemed off.
By Lance Ranzer
Jan 16, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Had a hard time on this - a hold or holds must have broken off. 10c/d in my book
By Matt Janse
From: Rancho Cucamonga
Jan 16, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I am 6 ft 3in and I did the route today, wasn't too bad but I could see it being harder for shorter folks. BEWARE on this one though, bolt 2 and the right anchor bolts are a bit loose- near spinner status. Please tighten if you have a tool.
By Joshua Dee
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 13, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I'm just under 5'8". Couldn't seem to find any positive hands above the wide, square ledge to make the anchor.
By moe beta
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good climb with nice holds. Only one section has thin holds but then it mellows out again, definitely not 10a territory (we warmed-up in this area). Easy to get off route/confused by bolt line as a couple people in my group got spit off by trying to stay close to the bolt line. If you stay to the right of the bolts, the climb is fairly straight-forward. I'm 5'9" and I had no trouble with any reaches; maybe use higher feet. One of the bolts at the anchor is a spinner.

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