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Chimney Sweep Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bert S 
Flue, The S 
Git Wood S 
Smoke, The S 
Soot T,S 

Soot 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: climber73 on Jul 30, 2013

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Description 

Climb up the left side of a small detached pillar at the bottom of the black streak to the right of The Flue. Make tough moves to gain the shallow, right-leaning dihedral, plug gear where needed to get through to the top of the corner, and gain the last 2 bolts prior to reaching the 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

This is the third route from the left on Middle Class Wall proper.

Protection 

2 bolts at the start, multiple finger and smaller size pieces in the dihedral, 2 bolts on the finishing stretch to the 2 bolt anchor. The gear after pulling into the dihedral could be tough to place on lead.


Comments on Soot Add Comment
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By Henry Lester
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2013

If you go up to the top of the pillar and then up and left rather than straight left at the second bolt, the route is 5.11c.