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Sons of Liberty 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Graham & Carkeet
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,454
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Sons and Pie


Four star climbing, but the pitch is docked a star for bolts next to reasonable gear placements.

A steep unnecessarily bolted corner with interesting technical moves to a vertical or steeper hand and finger crack. There is a crux at the end of the corner and another one midway up the crack where it thins to .5 Camalots for a move or two.


On the left side of the crag with some scrambling required to reach the base. (See Lewis' guide for better approach beta.) There is a belay bolt, but we found it worked better to belay a few feet above this.


Five (!) bolts, gear to gold or blue Camalots w/ doubles in fingers and hands.

Photos of Sons of Liberty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First cliff
First cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Sons, Breathless, and Pie
Looking up at Sons, Breathless, and Pie

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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think the three upper bolts are warranted, but I placed gear instead of using the first two.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 21, 2008

No stars deducted here, that is one sweet pitch and the bolts don't take away from it IMO.
By slim
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

the route actually seemed better protected using gear than the bolts. i agree with dougald, although i gave it 4 stars because the climbing makes up for it. sustained, physical, good protection at a fairly high altitude. i was kind of glad it started raining when we got down, so that i could use that as an excuse to head back to the truck for some beer.
By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 17, 2013

This might be my new favorite single 5.10d pitch. Really fun, good rests to be had, perfect protection. I'm not sure the bolts need to be there but I clipped them, you betcha.
By Todd Graham
From: Crowley Lake, CA
Dec 31, 2015

I added the bolts at the bottom for three reasons: 1) to stay in the same spirit as many of the routes at the Gong Show crag down canyon, 2) to improve the overall flow and quality of the climbing below the high quality handcrack, and 3) because the main crack start was pretty flaky/chossy (at least when we first climbed it). The crux is about halfway up -- get a good rest then pull into an off-fingers section. At the chain anchor you can step right and do the second pitch of Pie ... some of the best climbing I have done on the East Side.
By Dave McRae
Dec 6, 2016

Clip 'em or skip 'em? Who cares. This is an ultra-classic that shouldn't be missed. On the four star scale, this route deserves five!

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