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Sonoma Coast State Park

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Twin Coves 

Sonoma Coast State Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.4326, -123.0737 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 47,992
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jerry Dodrill on May 9, 2011
Forecast:
Tonight

49°
Saturday

69° | 51°
Sunday

71° | 52°
Monday

72° | 57°
Tuesday

76° | 56°
Wednesday

73° | 53°
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Description 

Sonoma Coast State Park (formerly known as Sonoma Coast State Beach) stretches from Bodega Head to Meyers Grade and includes Pomo Canyon and the Willow Creek Watershed (excellent mountain biking). The Sunset Boulders at Goat Rock, Twin Coves, Super Slab and Sea Crag, along with Pomo Canyon and Marshall Gulch, are all within this one park.

Climbers have been under a microscope here from time to time and future access could be threatened if certain paleontological theories about mammoth rubbings are substantiated. Please be an ambassador for the climbing community by respecting other visitor's experiences at the rocks.

You can get other current information at the Sonoma Coast State Park website.

Getting There 

Drive to Jenner, CA, located approximately 80 miles north of San Francisco along the Pacific Coast Highway (Hwy 1).

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

58 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',12],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sonoma Coast State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sonoma Coast State Park:
Pelican Arete   V-easy 3     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Sunset Face Left   V0- 4- R     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Mid-Term   V0 4     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders : Mammoth Rock
Heel Hooker Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Heel Hooker Boulder
Sunset Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Mammoth Rock
Skullcracker   V2 5+ R     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders : Lamb Boulder
Potato Chip Arete   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders : Potato Chip Boulder
Rock Scar   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Lamb Boulder
The Specialist   V4 6B     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Lamb Boulder
Osprey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Sunset Face Right   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Wide Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Blue Heron   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Twin Coves : Sport Rock (aka North Point...
Final Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 20'   Sunset Boulders : Mammoth Rock
Sport Wall Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Killer Crack   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V1 5 R     TR, Boulder, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Judge Dredd   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Jury Duty   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sonoma Coast State Park

Featured Route For Sonoma Coast State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Aron working near the start of the traverse.

Wrist Slitter Traverse V3 6A California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Sport Rock (aka North Point...
This is the best problem we found at Twin Coves.Starting 20' left and downhill from the beginning of Seagull arete you will find an overhung section that allows for a great bouldering traverse. Start on the large jug in the slot, and move steadily uphill on the arete. Continue uphill with hands and feet on the arete and mantle out just before the large bulge around the corner from Seagull Arete.The final moves are guaranteed to slit your wrist....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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