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Sonoma Coast State Park

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Sonoma Coast State Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.4326, -123.0737 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jerry Dodrill on May 9, 2011
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You & This Area
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The crux move on Pelican Arete. A right hand side...

Description 

Sonoma Coast State Park (formerly known as Sonoma Coast State Beach) stretches from Bodega Head to Meyers Grade and includes Pomo Canyon and the Willow Creek Watershed (excellent mountain biking). The Sunset Boulders at Goat Rock, Twin Coves, Super Slab and Sea Crag, along with Pomo Canyon and Marshall Gulch, are all within this one park.

Climbers have been under a microscope here from time to time and future access could be threatened if certain paleontological theories about mammoth rubbings are substantiated. Please be an ambassador for the climbing community by respecting other visitor's experiences at the rocks.

You can get other current information at the Sonoma Coast State Park website.

Getting There 

Drive to Jenner, CA, located approximately 80 miles north of San Francisco along the Pacific Coast Highway (Hwy 1).

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

58 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',12],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sonoma Coast State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sonoma Coast State Park:
Pelican Arete   V-easy 3     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Sunset Face Left   V0- 4- R     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Mid-Term   V0 4     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders : Mammoth Rock
Skullcracker   V2 5+ R     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders : Lamb Boulder
Sunset Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Mammoth Rock
Heel Hooker Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Heel Hooker Boulder
Potato Chip Arete   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders : Potato Chip Boulder
Rock Scar   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Lamb Boulder
The Specialist   V4 6B     Boulder   Sunset Boulders : Lamb Boulder
Osprey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Sunset Face Right   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Wide Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Blue Heron   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Twin Coves : Sport Rock (aka North Point...
Final Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 20'   Sunset Boulders : Mammoth Rock
Sport Wall Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Killer Crack   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V1 5 R     TR, Boulder, 30'   Sunset Boulders : Ram Rock
Judge Dredd   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Jury Duty   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'   Sea Crag : Main Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sonoma Coast State Park

Featured Route For Sonoma Coast State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Along the crack on Jury Duty

Jury Duty 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Main Rock
Jury Duty shares the first 5 bolts with Judge Dredd before continuing straight up to the thin hard pocket crux. Then a short traverse right to the 5.6 crack "Sandbagger" will take you to the top.First Ascent = Jason Campbell / Jim Thornburg. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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