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Sonic Youth Cliff
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Sonic Youth 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Bob Conz (1989)
Season: Any
Page Views: 5,103
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Lindsey Gram gets on Sonic Youth. Dec 2011 mattku...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is an excellent route! The namesake of the Sonic Youth cliff, this route climbs through a series of pockets and crimps on the lighter-colored rock just left of the waterstreak. The crux starts past the halfway point and continues through the top (endurance), which includes pulling a bulge on some small crimps. =)

This is a "must do" if you visit this area of Sandstone Quarry!


This route climbs the left side of the obvious water streak up the far right (west) side of the sonic youth cliff.


5 bolts to anchors on the upper bulge.

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By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 5, 2007

More like 11d unless your an endurance monster.
By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 9, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I agree with Gary. It's significantly harder then Yaak Crack (5.11c/d).
By Ben Lepesant
Mar 22, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

it's .11d in the handren guide
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 9, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

probably no move harder than .11a/b, but sustained enough to challenge you. Felt easier than Native Son and Cujo, but definitely more of a pump factor.
By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Jan 7, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A lot of crimps but really great feet. I loved the exciting finish!
Nov 13, 2012

11 D endurance route
By Michael Swartz
Nov 23, 2013

As of November '13, one of the bolts up high (4th or 5th?--there was at least one more on the steep part after it) was about an inch out of the hole. I hand-tightened, but it still seems pretty sketchy.
By mike moore
From: las vegas, nv
Dec 29, 2013

I replaced the 4th bolt that is referred to in the previous comment. Please excuse the open hole from the old bolt. I had no epoxy to patch it. The bolt used for replacement is a 1/2" x 3 3/4" powers bolt and a Fixe hanger. I replaced it sometime in Nov., 2013.
By Mike Mastanduno
Feb 9, 2016

This route is really sustained. None of the moves are that hard, so one might be tempted to call it 11b or c. Then they punt at the 5th to last move, then the 3rd to last move, then 2nd to last move before finally sending it. Sport climbing is not bouldering. Easy moves become hard after the first 5 bolts. Great flow, cool moves, great sport route.

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