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Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Songs of Love 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FRA: Chuck Calef
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: jamie Hamilton on Feb 20, 2011

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Description 

Climb the short arete. It is basically a boulder problem variation start to either climb 20 or 21. Fun moves!

Location 

The arete between the un-named 5.9 crack (climb 20) and Berserker.

Protection 

top rope


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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Oct 7, 2015

I'd climbed a line (on lead, but with basically no pro) like this (just right of #20) a few years back, but I'll admit I maybe traversed in a bit too high for it to count, not worthy of any credit.

As I was digging through the old stuff on the webs, it occurs that this might be a '97 Takeda-Laeser-Torres-Fitzgibbon climb "Jump Chump" (not sure if TR or lead)- this seems like one section of cliff at ONP that fits for it.
12/26-30/97 New Routes at the Old New Place, New New Place
First ascent teams including Theo Takeda, Luke Laeser, Carlo Torres, and Scott Fitzgibbon finished 4 new routes at the Old New and New New Places over the Christmas holiday. The first and best, "Momentum" *** 5.12a climbs the smooth, overhung face just right of "God Route" (on the far left side of the crag). On the other end of the cliff, "Half Nelson" ** 5.10d scales a short double overhang. And in the middle of all this, a variation up a smooth grey slab called "Jump Chump" * 5.11+.

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