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Dry Fork of Bull Canyon
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Song of the Canyon Wren T 

Song of the Canyon Wren 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Widen, Tony Valdes, 1986. FFA: John Rosholt, 1994.
Season: Cooler temps (south facing)
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: jakobi on Nov 28, 2012

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Looking down the climb from the anchors.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The route starts as hands/wide hands climbing past an old fixed hex. The angle kicks back to slightly overhanging wide hands for 15 ft through a bulge to a stance. From the stance a short section of easy offwidth leads to a sloping ledge and a set of bolted anchors. It seems the original ascent tension traversed to the right to gain a thin hands splitter, we climbed the crack straight off the ledge which is perfect hands for a ways before eventually pinching down to stacks before the next anchor.


On the north side of the valley, Song of the Canyon Wren is the obvious splitter crack that pinches shut at a ledge, with another crack opening up to the right at it's terminus. Anchors are visible from the road.


Doubles from .75-4 Camalots with extra 2's and 3's. If climbing the right crack take some extra .75 and 1's. A couple of alpine draws.

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By TonyV
From: Cool, CA
Dec 13, 2012

You are correct in how we put up the first ascent. Actually Jeff Widen freed the traverse contrary to the A0 described in Desert Rock. Great to see the climb is getting some traffic. This was the first climb in the area. The second pitch of thin hands is definitely the crux.

Peace climbing in the Desert.


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