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Song Of Stone 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Francis Hayden and Thomas Perkins, 10/2002
Season: Gets mostly shade
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Side pull clip on Song of Stone

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


Probably the best route on the wall. While the book refers to this as a sustained crack, most of the climbing is face climbing. Still, crux jams may make this a lot easier if you know how.


This is the 3rd bolt line on the wall from the left side.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is well protected by the second to last bolt.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Song of Stone
Song of Stone
Rock Climbing Photo: Reachy move on Song of Stone
Reachy move on Song of Stone

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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Has anyone ever led this on gear? Although I'm grateful for this route being bolted, I wish I had brought my rack for this route... but on the other hand hauling a trad rack overseas for just this route would have been futile.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 23, 2012

Definitely easier for me since I like crack. Still, the crack up high on the route is harder to jam cause it gets wider and has thin lips; pull on the edge and you're fine.
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you know how to jam and have basic crack technique, this thing is quite a breeze. Would love to bring my rack next time and try leading this on gear.

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