Song Jiang Soup
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Local badass risking his life
Climbs out the main entrance's right side (from the beach, looking in). Move through a brief section inside the cave, exiting onto blocky climbing through a series of roofs and corners.
Best climbed during dry, windy periods. The rock can be very humid and sandy due to positioning over the beach. The large holds and excellent movement makes up for otherwise poor conditions.
Lots of expansion bolts (12 or more!)of dubious integrity. There are plenty of options for intermediate placements if wary of the inferior hardware.
Bizarre anchors. Unless they've been updated since 2009/2010, they are two bolts installed upwards into a small roof near suspect stone.
Second cave, main entrance, right side.