Zhong Jiang Soup
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Local badass risking his life
Climbs up the slab on the main entrance's right side (from the beach, looking in). At a wide sandy break, pull through the first big roof, exiting onto blocky terrain and continue up the corner (supplemental gear is nice here). At the next, bigger roof, contort yourself ever-upwards, plug some gear if you want to protect the slight run-out, then find some good jams, and pull the lip. Romp up easier climbing (gear is nice here too) and stay left of the last bulge.
Best climbed during dry, windy periods. The rock can be very humid and sandy due to positioning over the beach. The large holds and excellent movement makes up for otherwise poor conditions.
The route was rebolted by QX and friends in 2016 with titanium. The anchors were moved 3m lower to avoid a section of loose, sandy rock, so is now installed vertically, not straight up into the chossy roof.
Second cave, main entrance, right side.
Titanium (2016), supplemental gear #.3-2 is nice
Jan 25, 2017
Glad to see this route got re-equipped with solid hardware and better bolt placement. Especially the roof bolts...