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Son of Slime 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Sep 16, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Son of Slime 2nd pitch

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Jump on this route when it's dry. Good friction throughout.

    P1- 5.10a PG13 Start from a bolted anchor on ledge and climb up to base of C-Tips to place your first pro. Continue traversing right with some gear [small nuts or large RP's useful] to a stance slightly above a bolt. Clip bolt and down climb [crux] below it. Make a series of long thin face moves to another stance [good gear once there] or down climb more [easier] to a second bolt [DON'T CLIP 2nd BOLT] traverse and climb up to stance. Make your way to the bolted rap station.

    P2- 5.9+ G/5.7 R Climb the obvious crack to a pair of bolts then climb to a second pair of bolts. Move over the 2nd pair and climb easier with scarce pro to ledge.
    One 50m rap or two 30m.

    There are 2 or 3 more pitches above but I didn't do them.


    The ledge 20m right of The Great Dihedral. Same start as C-Tips.


    .5" to 1.25" or Green Alien to Green X4 and some small nuts.
    Doubles in .75" - 1." Yellow to Red Alien
    Plus a #3 blue C4. A 2 works but 3 is better.
    All anchors are bolted

    Photos of Son of Slime Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
    Pitch 1
    Rock Climbing Photo: Son of Slime
    BETA PHOTO: Son of Slime

    Comments on Son of Slime Add Comment
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    By Matt Salter
    Aug 18, 2017
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    Excellent line. Agree with PG-13 on the first pitch, for both the leader and the follower. The anchor atop the second pitch needs some work; the right bolt is loose. We found it easy and worthwhile to traverse over to the top of C-Tips (roped up) and Rap with 1 rope from there.

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