Son of Gums
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BETA PHOTO: starting son of gums
Approach Pitches: Option 1 (5.10+ hard): Climb the first pitch of Cap'm Pissgums to alcove. Second pitch heads back into the squeeze chimney. On this pitch, first surmount two chockstones, then follow the darkness that takes you into a widening chimney. Near the blocks further in, chimney up again then further into the belly of End Pinnacle. This eventually opens up near the last rap of the typical descent for End Pinnacle. Option 2 (5.11): Climb the first pitch of Uncarved Block. Lastly, continue another 100 feet or so (5.5ish) up the ramp to the start of Son of Gums which will appear as the wide crack on your right.
Pitch 1) Stemming leads to one bolt that protects the difficult opening moves. Continue up large crack with a brief sampling of the offwidth to come. Exit up and left where it is obvious to do so. Belay from rap anchors (5.10-).
Pitch 2) Sustained offwidth that is great for those who wish to practice or pursue these tough love types of climbs. This pitch has more features than the second pitch of Abracadaver, but probably, in the end, is about the same difficulty. Belay on small cams and small tree (5.10).
Pitch 3) Tricky start past a bolt leads to a hand size crack that takes you to the top (5.8).
Kerry's description for the route can be found here: climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...
Descent: The route ends at the first of the raps for the typical descent off of End Pinnacle.
2 or 3 BD #5s, 2 BD #1-4, 1 set of smaller sizes (< #1) for the anchor after the second pitch.
Jan 24, 2012
Great route, not scary, if you want to practice some offwidth.
I would give the tricky start of "pitch 3" a 5.10 rating (harder if you are short?), even though the rest is indeed 5.8
I would also be curious to know how many ascents this route has seen.
May 15, 2014
Does anyone know who replaced the bolt on this?
May 19, 2014
I replaced the quarter incher in maybe 1999? Hope I didn't screw up too bad. Scott was across the way on rockefellow that day