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Son of Easy O 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and Al DeMaria, 1962
Page Views: 25,096
Submitted By: Guy H. on May 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (410)
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Becky Diamond on the P2 roof


This may be the best 5.8 at the Gunks if you link both pitches: you get thin face moves, jamming, a long traverse, and a thuggish roof.

Use the same access trail as for City Lights, just below the striking widening crack of Baby. The climb starts 45' left of City Lights, at a thin jagged crack with a piton about 15' up.

P1: Thin face climbing and jamming will lead to a 2' ledge. 5.8, 90'. Build your own belay either directly under the corner above, or on gear 15' to the left, or exit 30' left to the rappel bolts over Easy Overhang.

P2: Aim for the overhanging left-facing corner system. If your belay is to the left of the main corner, you can traverse 10'-15' to the right on a sandy horizontal; there are pitons at the start and end of the traverse. The climbing is steep, and the feet are not as good as you might like. Fire through the steep rock above on well-spaced jugs. Pull right onto the face above, then head up and leftward. 5.8, 70'.

There is a piton anchor below the top of the cliff. Rappel from here (70m mandatory!), or continue to the top (be VERY careful of loose rocks underfoot).

From the top, you can rappel a nearby route - Baby to climber's left, or City Lights to climber's right. The Uberfall Descent is also a quick and easy option.Italic Text


Standard rack; extra finger-size pro for combining pitches...

Photos of Son of Easy O Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The P2 roof, as seen from below.  Super climbing! ...
BETA PHOTO: The P2 roof, as seen from below. Super climbing! ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben leading p2 of Son of Easy Overhang. Photo take...
BETA PHOTO: Ben leading p2 of Son of Easy Overhang. Photo take...
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof on P2...
The roof on P2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiff on Son of Easy O
Tiff on Son of Easy O
Rock Climbing Photo: Son of Easy Overhang
Son of Easy Overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Me starting on the roof of Son of Easy O
Me starting on the roof of Son of Easy O
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun climbing!
Fun climbing!
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun on Son of Easy O
Having fun on Son of Easy O
Rock Climbing Photo: p2 - Son of Easy O
p2 - Son of Easy O
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing P2 on a sunny day in January
Climbing P2 on a sunny day in January
Rock Climbing Photo: The dubious 3-pin anchor at the top. Having  to fe...
BETA PHOTO: The dubious 3-pin anchor at the top. Having to fe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Son of Easy O from Pas de Deux
Son of Easy O from Pas de Deux
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam leading up the first pitch of Son of Easy O(5...
Adam leading up the first pitch of Son of Easy O(5...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Son of Easy O
P1 of Son of Easy O
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out the 2nd pitch of Son of Easy O.  The f...
Topping out the 2nd pitch of Son of Easy O. The f...

Comments on Son of Easy O Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 4, 2017
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
May 17, 2006

Incredible climbing. The first pitch can feel pretty spicy down low. The second pitch is a great jug haul through roofs, much easier roofs than Modern Times. Continuing all the way to the top is my preference, because I'm not crazy about that old two-pin belay station. I don't think you can run it top to bottom in one pitch though. You'd have to stop at the big ledge if you were to go all the way to the top. Rap off Frog's Head bolts to the right.
By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2006

For those of you looking to maximize your climbing and stamina you can link both pitches together. When I first led this way back when, I linked them together with a 60m rope and walked down.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jun 5, 2006

This is the best pitch of 5.8 I have ever climbed. I combined both pitches and did the route at the end of the day just when the sun began its descent past the horizon. The upper roof is interesting, but never so hard that you can't pause and look around to admire your surroundings. And what amazing surroundings they are.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

Did this in one pitch with little difficulty. Be sure to bring lots of slings though. I wasn't much impressed with P1, but P2 was totally sweet. Really fun moves on huge jugs, with excellent gear and rock. When I topped out I was surprised to find handfulls of loose gravel precariously poised to fall on climbers below. This may have been due to heavy rainfall the night before.

P2 felt easy for the grade by Gunks standards.
By GMBurns
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I felt that the roof section was easier than Strickley's, and was probably more like 5.7. A fun route overall, and definitely worth doing. P1 is definitely harder than P2. I'm not sure how P2 gets a 5.8 rating when Birdland is also 5.8 and much, much harder.
By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
May 27, 2009

Wow, I thought that P1(based on the traditional breakdown of pitches, I actually did the whole route as one pitch) was a cake walk. For me, P2 was the one that made me a little nervous. There's no rest leading up to the crux, and you have to place gear (great gear) while hanging off of one hand with your feet in no position to save you if you pump out or lose your grip.

Strictly allows you to throw a foot out to the right tip of the corner, so you can actually be hands free and resting, albeit awkwardly, while placing gear.
By losbill
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can do it as one pitch to the trees with a 60 meter. However you do not end up with enough back rope to get to the cliff edge to see your second come around the overhang. Makes communication a little difficult as well. 70 meter give enough back rope to belay from the cliff edge.
By Jay Harrison
Jan 17, 2010

Traditionally, this was done in two pitches, by climbing leftward to the belay ledge for P1, then making a scary move straight up off the ledge to a traverse shelf and hand-traversing 10' right to the bottom of the corner (very scary if you try using this shelf as a foot traverse!).
Most folks combine these pitches into one nowadays, by forgoing the leftward move to the ledge, instead moving slightly right and up the steep, sparsely-protected face then up and left to reach the beginning of the corner.
I generally back up that anchor near the top of the cliff (the one with beat-up fixed cams and pin) to bring up followers, lower everyone else, then pull my gear and pray as I rappel. I've always tested the fixed gear and it *seems* rock-solid, but boy does it look hammered...
And yes, 70m rope required for that rap.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Simply stellar route. Kinda surprised by Mono's comment about pitch one because I actually thought that the first pitch in particular was amazing, though I would agree that the second pitch roof seemed a bit soft at 5.8 for Gunks standards. As Mr. Knower says, maybe one of the better pitches of 5.8 around.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this yesterday for the first time in a LOOOONG while! Simply outstanding!
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jun 29, 2011

Did this yesterday at 1 pitch.. it's funny how it has something for everyone's strength.. the slab climbers love the bottom and the roof climbers love the top. I'm a roof climber so i thought the top was easy for me.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Jul 1, 2011

The huge roof had me pretty intimidated from the ground, but the real business is down low at the small crack. I didn't think much of the moves but they weren't very strenuous and very well protected. You get a fantastic rest before you embark on the steep journey to the beginning of the roof, but once you get up to it it has jugs in every dimension, and once you get into pulling the roof you have great feet out right to rock onto and it feels superb. Long runners under the roof are a must tho! A fantastic climb, a surprising joy ride.
By David Stowe
Jul 3, 2011

I'm just a climber and really like the whole thing.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

could there be a better 8? I think not. THis is a fabulous climb from bottom to top. The bottom is harder for me, I love juggy roof climbs.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011

Can someone point me in the direction of a better 5.8. God I love this climb just amazing
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 8, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pitch 1 is the money, P2 is just a jug haul. Like night/day. In a way it makes it a nice climb because you get the best of both rock climbing worlds (delicate face and crack climbing vs. mindless pullups). Sometimes jug hauls can be stellar (Madame G's comes to mind). Sometimes they're just exercise. This falls directly between. Not enough can be said about the moves on the first pitch. Never the same thing twice and relatively sustained.
By Jason Taibi
Jun 28, 2012

The sketchy old pin anchor at the top has been replaced with a new one consisting of 3 brand new pins (not even any scratches yet) with chains.
By CatChen
From: Germantown, MD
Aug 20, 2012

P1 was the crux for me. Sustained and so much fun. The pro was great, so it was never scary. You can really sew up this pitch. I almost unloaded a full set of nuts. P2 roof looks scary, but was very juggy and felt easier than 5.8.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jul 10, 2013

Linked both pitches and think this is the best 5.8 I've climbed in the Gunks. On pitch two you can escape around right onto the face just after the crux for a rest, but it is more fun to contuinue straight up through the corner roofs.
By christopher adams
Aug 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Probably the best 5.8 at the gunks. Definitely the best 5.8 I've lead anywhere.
By Dylan Randall
From: Denville, NJ
Oct 13, 2014

Linked the pitches. Best 5.8 I've ever been on. I felt both pitches were super quality. The upper roof section had me grinning ear to ear. GET ON THIS.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Oct 14, 2014

Ya, pretty much my favorite 5.8 anywhere. I love slab, I love roofs, I love fingerlocks, I love good gear, I love this climb. Also, link the pitches for the best experience.
By Dan Katz
Oct 4, 2017

I highly recommend doing this in one pitch, as it allows one to skip the somewhat pumpy/sketchy traverse that becomes required when breaking the route into two pitches. I found the overhung section easier to find rest stances on than Strictly From Nowhere, and certainly no single roof-pulling move is more difficult than the crux of that climb.

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