|Type:||Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A0-1 PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Dave Crough and Christian Straight, 1978|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Friedrich on Aug 7, 2008|
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|Comments on Son of Dawn Wall||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Knight
Feb 9, 2012
|Instead of rapping, you can also continue to the top, head east (climber's left) across the top of the ridge and rap down the Hideout (less than 100' rap). About 20 minutes or so of scrambling down to the right (clockwise as viewed from the top)- 2nd/3rd Class - and you'll be back to the base of the climb. Probably easier/safer than rapping the entire route.|
By BighornAdams Adams
Jan 26, 2013
|Awesome fun route. The squeeze chimney up top is super memorable.|
By Mickey Sensenbach
From: San luis obispo CA
Nov 3, 2013
|this route was super adventurous! it is easy till the chimney then it gets scary, not nessarily hard but it is very lose and bad pro! the crux is the pitch going into the chimney, which would be the first chimney pitch! I agree with john for the descent but instead of doing the hideout thing we reversed the first 2 pitches of old original! pretty fun time!|
By David Cook
Dec 3, 2015
|Bring two 60 meter ropes if you want to rap. Beware of the final chimney!|
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Jan 29, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0
Fun climb in great setting.
P1- 5.11b, but there are so many bolts it could be graded C(-1).
P2- Easy bolt ladder. Would be interested to know if anyone has freed this....bet it goes
P3- 5.8 slabbing
P4- 5.8/9 slabbing into the chimney.
P5- Chimney to chockstone.
P6- to top.
Gear could be: lots of draws, 0.3, 2 x#1, #3, and you would be pretty set. The chimney is really easy, tons of friction, and not much loose rock.
By alan swanson
Mar 14, 2017
|I freed the first pitch in the early 80's with Rich Kropp. Many 1/4 bolts...didn't have quickdraws in those days and as was the custom then clipped with double carabiners until I ran out....single biners for the last few (probably safer)! Great pitch**|
By Isaiah Foulks
Mar 16, 2017
|After the chockstone, there is supposed to be "exposed fourth class to summit." Either we went off route, or someone's idea of fourth class is twisted... Just after the chockstone, there appear to be 2 notches: one goes left, and one goes higher up and to the right. My partner took the left one (I belayed) and nearly ran out of rope (60m). Luckily we chose to place gear, because there was still some technical climbing at several instances. Strangly enough, we ended right at the end of Old Original Pitch 2. Hard to say if we should have gone up and right instead, but our way was seriously a good challenge.|