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Son of Belayer Slayer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: kelly cordner, Margy Marshall
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: kelly cordner on Oct 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Description 

Cruxes above the 2nd bolt and at the bulge 1/3 of the way up. a 70m rope stretcher. As good a rock quality as any route on the main PUB formation, much better than "Belayer Slayer". An excellent and long warm-up. Many big holds!

Location 

between "Light Within" and "Belayer Slayer". Climb up easy slab and stem left to clip the 1st bolt.

Protection 

15 bolts


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By Zirkel
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A really nice addition to the wall, Kelly. Worthy of it's own name and a .10a rating.

But why not drop the anchors to avoid a potential accident? Is a 38 meter pitch really necessary?
By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just climbed this for the first time this weekend -- I was able to lower to the ground with a 70m just fine with rope stretch.

Don't forget to bring lots of draws!
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
May 6, 2015

Just did this climb today for the first time - what a long, fun route. Highly varied with fun moves and great holds!
One of our favorite 5.10a routes we have done in the Gorge!

Thanks!
By kelly cordner
From: Fish Lake Valley, NV
Apr 28, 2016

sorry to offend your sensibilities Marty. Hows about that tower and those power lines! The chains have been up there for 3 years. I added them because the anchors were too high, widely spaced and above a break. The rope kinks less and runs cleaner. The climb also works better for short 70m ropes. Next time I'll get Gorge Grey but the hardware store was out.:)
By Ensign
Oct 29, 2016

There was a climbing accident on this route a few days ago. A climber was lowering her partner using a 70 meter rope and lowered her off the end of the rope. She fell from the 2nd-3rd bolt area and bounced down the slab. Fortunately she was wearing a helmet and, while she was pretty banged up, didn't initially look like she had any life or disability threatening injuries. In any case, the team was clearly under the impression that a 70 meter rope was long enough for the round trip. The belayer even said "This is a 70 meter Petzl rope - I'm going to call Petzl and ask them about it". In any case, you can get off this route with a 70, but the belayer has to climb up the slab, the climber has to untie up on the slab, then both must do the (very easy but unprotected) downclimb. The better alternative is to rap to the top anchor of 'Light within' that is just to the left.
By Marek Hajek
From: Reno, NV
Apr 21, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For me, this is a 5 star classic route and feels like one of the best warm ups in Central Gorge. The route is about 37m long. It seems the climbing accident last year had to be due to the climber's rope being significantly shorter than 70m. The 2nd to 3rd bolt on this route is 30'/~10m up. Sounds like they were mistakenly using a 60m rope. I am glad the climber got to walk away from such a huge fall. I highly recommend using an 80m rope for this route.
While I understand the upper bolt line runs over Tempest, the old gear route, once I lead Tempest on gear back in 2006 I never had any interest in doing it again. I suspect Tempest got minimal traffic. I bet there is at least a 100:1 utilization ratio of the rock(the ratio between how frequently this route is climbed vs. Tempest), now that it has been bolted, and I would not be surprised if it was a 1000:1 ratio. The bolts won't prevent anyone from doing Tempest to the top on gear, if any climber desires such experience.

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