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Son of Belayer Slayer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: kelly cordner, Margy Marshall
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: kelly cordner on Oct 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

Cruxes above the 2nd bolt and at the bulge 1/3 of the way up. a 70m rope stretcher. As good a rock quality as any route on the main PUB formation, much better than "Belayer Slayer". An excellent and long warm-up. Many big holds!

Location 

between "Light Within" and "Belayer Slayer". Climb up easy slab and stem left to clip the 1st bolt.

Protection 

15 bolts


Comments on Son of Belayer Slayer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zirkel
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A really nice addition to the wall, Kelly. Worthy of it's own name and a .10a rating.

But why not drop the anchors to avoid a potential accident? Is a 38 meter pitch really necessary?
By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just climbed this for the first time this weekend -- I was able to lower to the ground with a 70m just fine with rope stretch.

Don't forget to bring lots of draws!
By Marty Lewis
Dec 23, 2014

Pretty fun route, tons'o'bolts, more like 5.9. However, it's a tad controversial. The Upper Half (a crack) is an existing gear route called TEMPEST. Tempest shares the same start as Set Free then follows the right trending crack for two pitches. The crack has been retrobolted, renamed and a new anchor was installed 15' below the original anchor (old webbing). Gorge history ignored.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
May 6, 2015

Just did this climb today for the first time - what a long, fun route. Highly varied with fun moves and great holds!
One of our favorite 5.10a routes we have done in the Gorge!

Thanks!
By Marty Lewis
Apr 27, 2016

Was climbing over at the Social Platform today and couldn't help but notice the pair of three foot long chains at the anchor on this route. The other 20 anchors are all very discrete. What's the deal with the steel? Is this some new gaudy ethic?
By kelly cordner
From: Fish Lake Valley, NV
Apr 28, 2016

sorry to offend your sensibilities Marty. Hows about that tower and those power lines! The chains have been up there for 3 years. I added them because the anchors were too high, widely spaced and above a break. The rope kinks less and runs cleaner. The climb also works better for short 70m ropes. Next time I'll get Gorge Grey but the hardware store was out.:)
By Marty Lewis
Apr 29, 2016

Sorry dude. I take it all back. I'm a dinosaur. Crag ethics are dead. It's a new era. More glistening steel please! Peace out.

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