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Son of Belayer Slayer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: kelly cordner, Margy Marshall
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: kelly cordner on Oct 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Description 

Cruxes above the 2nd bolt and at the bulge 1/3 of the way up. a 70m rope stretcher. As good a rock quality as any route on the main PUB formation, much better than "Belayer Slayer". An excellent and long warm-up. Many big holds!

Location 

between "Light Within" and "Belayer Slayer". Climb up easy slab and stem left to clip the 1st bolt.

Protection 

15 bolts


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By Zirkel
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A really nice addition to the wall, Kelly. Worthy of it's own name and a .10a rating.

But why not drop the anchors to avoid a potential accident? Is a 38 meter pitch really necessary?
By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just climbed this for the first time this weekend -- I was able to lower to the ground with a 70m just fine with rope stretch.

Don't forget to bring lots of draws!
By Marty Lewis
Dec 23, 2014

Pretty fun route, tons'o'bolts, more like 5.9. However, it's a tad controversial. The Upper Half (a crack) is an existing gear route called TEMPEST. Tempest shares the same start as Set Free then follows the right trending crack for two pitches. The crack has been retrobolted, renamed and a new anchor was installed 15' below the original anchor (old webbing). Gorge history ignored.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
May 6, 2015

Just did this climb today for the first time - what a long, fun route. Highly varied with fun moves and great holds!
One of our favorite 5.10a routes we have done in the Gorge!

Thanks!
By Marty Lewis
Apr 27, 2016

Was climbing over at the Social Platform today and couldn't help but notice the pair of three foot long chains at the anchor on this route. The other 20 anchors are all very discrete. What's the deal with the steel? Is this some new gaudy ethic?
By kelly cordner
From: Fish Lake Valley, NV
Apr 28, 2016

sorry to offend your sensibilities Marty. Hows about that tower and those power lines! The chains have been up there for 3 years. I added them because the anchors were too high, widely spaced and above a break. The rope kinks less and runs cleaner. The climb also works better for short 70m ropes. Next time I'll get Gorge Grey but the hardware store was out.:)
By Marty Lewis
Apr 29, 2016

Sorry dude. I take it all back. I'm a dinosaur. Crag ethics are dead. It's a new era. More glistening steel please! Peace out.
By Ensign
Oct 29, 2016

There was a climbing accident on this route a few days ago. A climber was lowering her partner using a 70 meter rope and lowered her off the end of the rope. She fell from the 2nd-3rd bolt area and bounced down the slab. Fortunately she was wearing a helmet and, while she was pretty banged up, didn't initially look like she had any life or disability threatening injuries. In any case, the team was clearly under the impression that a 70 meter rope was long enough for the round trip. The belayer even said "This is a 70 meter Petzl rope - I'm going to call Petzl and ask them about it". In any case, you can get off this route with a 70, but the belayer has to climb up the slab, the climber has to untie up on the slab, then both must do the (very easy but unprotected) downclimb. The better alternative is to rap to the top anchor of 'Light within' that is just to the left.