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Lower Blair III
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
A Horse Will Have To Do T 
Arete Already T 
Bragging About Jesus S 
Bullwinkle T 
Damit T 
Empty Suit T 
Five Finger Discount T,S 
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
Hard to Believe T 
Inconvenient Angles T 
Inferno Fog S 
Inner Notch T 
Intimidation T 
Jogging Direct T,TR 
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 
La Femme Takeda T 
Ledge of the World, The T 
Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Dark T 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Putter T 
Random Crystals T 
Scratch the Surface T 
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Son of a Wanted Man T 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unicorn Exterminator T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

Son of a Wanted Man 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Scott Milton
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Kevin Macartney on Jul 1, 2015

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Son of a Wanted Man is an anomaly for Vedauwoo; instead of climbing a crack or sharp crystals, the dike that characterizes this route allows you to climb on mostly smooth holds: crimps, pinches, and underclings. Don't let the abundant features fool you though, Son of a Wanted Man is hard from the get go. A short tricky boulder problem guards the beginning of the route, then after a quick reprieve, you charge forward into the crux overlap, where the angle of the wall changes. As you get closer to the obvious jug, the other features die off, and you are left with powerful moves to vague pinches and blobs. Once you gain the Thank God jug, the hard climbing is over, but now you have to place gear for protection, and just when you think it's over, there is one last boulder guarding the chains, more of a mental challenge than a physical one though.

Location 

You'll find this route about a hundred feet left of Pretty Girls With Long Knives. The route climbs the obvious dike feature (handholds!) up the mostly vertical face.

Protection 

5 bolts to get you through the crux, then protect with some gear up to thin hands size to the anchors.


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By Warrior
From: Rock City, GA
Jan 5, 2016

Spectacular looking, vertical dike...dreamy....

If anyone has beta, I'd love to hear the rundown. Felt hard...cryptically hard....

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