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Sometimes a Great Notion 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kjell Swedin, Bob McDougall, 1980
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: geoff georges on Sep 3, 2014

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the mossy approach pitch would be great if cleaned...

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An attractive looking thin crack on the wall left of Black Widow. Approached the same way, by the first pitch of the Wild Traverse, a mossy inside corner directly below Black Widow.
I thought this was harder then some 11a cracks I have done, but who knows.

Location 

After you make the exposed traverse over from the left end of Dead End ledge you will see 4 bolts on a face (Twilight Zone, 11c), the next corner below chimney.
The approach pitch is 5.9, was able to stem around the moss, small tree and good Lost Arrow pin at belay.

Protection 

Mostly small cams and brass nuts. It tops out on VW ledge with a bolted anchor( no chains, ok slings 9/2014) on the far left end. Make sure to extend slings before turning the lip onto the ledge, the rope wants to jam in a 1/2" crack.


Photos of Sometimes a Great Notion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: thin cracks, short yet sustained hard moves.
thin cracks, short yet sustained hard moves.

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